Peak District walk (3) - Litton and Chee Dale

Date of walk: Feb 8th, 2012.  Distance 13 miles.  Start: Litton village. 

An illustrated account of the walk, click on any picture to enlarge, or to view as a slideshow.

Litton, like so many of the Peak District villages, has a distinct character, and is an excellent place to start a walk.  It has been a prolonged dry and mild period of weather, although often dull, and today was no exception.  These are excellent conditions for comfortable walking, but a little more challenging for photography, at least if a riot of colour is the aim.  Litton is on high ground, but not far from some steep limestone valleys typical of the area.  Some of these valleys and their surroundings were the focus for the walk.

So the direction was southeast, away from the village, heading for the first valley called Tansley Dale.  It starts just as a shallow dip in the fields near the village, with their full share of limestone walls.  Quickly though, the sides steepen and you dive down into the confined world of limestone valleys.  The views are restricted but full of interest, therefore good destinations when conditions are not great for long distance vistas.  It was also like entering a visual representation of a fractal - Tansley Dale leads into the larger Cressbrook Dale which goes down to the still larger valley of the River Wye.

Tansley Dale into Cressbrook Dale, near Litton

In this type of limestone scenery, the landscape seems compact, with fresh views around every corner, and the corners come thick and fast.  It makes for very satisfying walking country, and you can very quickly feel off the beaten track and escape the crowds, even in such a popular National Park, so close to large urban centres in all directions.  There are many of these valleys which are destinations in their own right and become thronged with walkers, but there are enough for some with fine enough scenery to remain fairly quiet.  On reaching Cressbrook Dale I turned right to head downstream.  Beyond an open section with some crags, the valley becomes well wooded.  The valley floors are typically shaded and damp, excellent sites for mosses and a range of wild flowers - limestone country is renowned for its botanical diversity.  Just on the cusp of spring, the moss in contrasting with the bare trees provided the main visual impact.

Footpath in Cressbrook Dale

Eventually a group of cottages is reached at Ravensdale, and the path turns into a track then a little lane, joining another of the lanes that wind confusingly around the vicinity of Cressbrook village.  Cressbrook Mill, one of the historic textile mills of the area.  Generally Cressbrook was regarded quite favourably, even though women and children were still required to work long and hard hours.  It is located right at the point where the stream down Cressbrook Dale reaches the River Wye, at the lowest point of the walk.  The buildings have been restored and converted into flats - the final industrial action producing nylon ceased in 1965, previously cotton had been the material.  A path sneaks by the mill to the river, turning right to head upstream on the north bank.  The path is right by the water and often prone to flooding.

River path between Cressbrook Mill and Litton Mill

A short section of the valley here rejoices in the name of Water-cum-Jolly Dale.  The river twists and turns so much that sections have their own name, and to this day there is no continuous road up the valley.  Indeed the map needs to be studied quite carefully when driving away from the main routes, to check out how to get to one place from another.  To walk from Cressbrook Mill to Litton Mill is only a mile by the river, but to drive, you have to go up to Litton, down Tideswell Dale to Miller's Dale and up the dead end road to Litton Mill, over five times the distance.  This makes it all the more extraordinary that the valley was chosen as a route for a railway line which was actually built.  The valley is famous for the line with all its tunnels and viaducts, and can be followed by walkers as the Monsal Trail.  Even the tunnels have recently been opened, and cyclists can use the route as well.  The river winds through steeply sided woodland before arriving at Litton Mill.

By Litton Mill

Litton Mill, like Cressbrook Mill, has now been converted into flats.  However, Litton Mill was especially notorious for the unspeakable working conditions, little short of slave labour for young children moved up from London.  I think I would find its strange to live within walls with such a history, even though the surroundings are so beautiful and very tranquil these days.  To keep the walk varied, I crossed the river over a long bridge just by the cottages beyond the mill.  I crossed the Monsal Trail up on the south side of the valley, and climbed up through a reserve called Priestcliffe Lees, or geological and botanical interest.  The views open out over the valley and the limestone scenery with all its particular qualities is laid out.

Wye valley, Derbyshire limestone country

There are many lumps and bumps indicating spoil heaps from historic small scale mineral mining, and there are areas of cliffs and exposed rock.  Towards the top the ground becomes smoother, with the open green pasture land also associated with the rock type.  The contrast always seems striking.  Limestone, being porous, means that these pastures are well drained and almost always provided easy and attractive walking.  Sometimes the plateau areas can seen dull, but they are quite different from the "Black Peak" moorlands further north.  I stopped for a break and refuelling towards the top of the longest steep climb of the day, and soon joined a good track leading towards the hamlet of Priestcliffe, not far from Taddington.

Upland track, soon turns left for Priestcliffe

 Priestcliffe has a real rural air about it, even though within a mile or so of the busy A6 route to Buxton.  The next section involved some road walking, but quiet and pleasant enough, through the further scattered hamlets of Priestcliffe Ditch and Blackwell, either side of the Miller's Dale road.  Strangely, these villages, along with Litton are on the highest sections of the walk.

A farm at Blackwell, across the Miller's Dale road

The short section of the Pennine Bridleway was the epitome of smooth limestone grassland, with little sign of the dramatic scenery close by, below, to the north.  The route curves gently, almost intersecting with the A6, where there are now real indications of the change of scenery.  However, at this stage it is just a fairly small, unremarkable valley heading down to the north.   Quickly the valley becomes deep with steep grassy sides, and soon becomes rocky as the descent continues.  Rounding a rocky band, the Monsal Trail comes into view with a bridge across, which reveals an even more dramatic view - the first impression of what is to come through Chee Dale, undeniably the highlight of the walk.

Former railway cutting and crags, Chee Dale

The valley floor is a little lower down still, with a footbridge across to the Blackwell Mill Cottages.  A sign warns that the Chee Dale footpath is liable to flooding and difficult in places, but starts gently enough, heading downstream, through the trees by the river with views to the crags on the other side.   The first of several viaducts soon appears, confusing until it is realised that not only was a railway built through the valley, but a three way junction with another line through Great Rocks Dale, a line that continues to serve the vast Tunstead limestone quarry nearby.  The next viaduct is the actual Monsal trail crossing the valley.  There are steep steps up to the trail allowing close up views of some of the arches.  The valley path continues, and rock begins to appear lower down closer to river level.  Around a bit of a spur, overhanging crags appear ahead with the first sequence of stepping stones beneath.  The steps are large square blocks with textured surfaces, and not difficult to cross.  Tall people like myself have to mind their heads on the overhanging crag in places.

Chee Dale stepping stones, looking upstream

The steps mark just the start of the most splendid river walk I have encountered, with a real sense of intimacy with water, rock and trees.  For a short distance, low crags hem in the river on both sides and you feel fully engaged with a little world where there is no real sense of the wider geography beyond.

Crags by the river Wye, Chee Dale

The path continues to find unexpectedly straightforward progress close to the river for a while, and then is confronted with the tortuous course past Chee Tor.  Rounding a spur at the first and tightest bend, the path has to divert across footbridges over the river and climb a little way up the valley side with a steep drop below.  The second footbridge is by the next viaduct, and it is clear to be seen why the path divert across the river, because of a awkward crag.  Rounding the corner, the other series of stepping stones can be seen a short way ahead, even more enjoyable for me because the crag is vertical rather than overhanging, and there was more chance to appreciate the surroundings.

Lower Chee Dale stepping stones, looking upstream

Even uploading the picture, I'm taking time to recall a place that really made an impression on me.  I've done plenty of walking, although not much in mountains or rugged terrain recently, so it was really great to have the opportunity to enjoy the route here.  Please take care when planning the route, pets or young children may have difficulties, and there is the obvious danger of flooding.  Another more detailed view of the steps seems in order.

Cheed Dale footsteps, river Wye

Immediately beyond is another feature, with an overhanging crag dripping water over the path, possibly the most dramatic bit scenically of the whole valley.

Crag overhanging the river Wye, Chee Dale

The route ahead looks as though it is about to ease, but there are a couple of steep places above the river still to be negotiated, with fine views across to the craggy ramparts of Chee Tor which has the river on three sides.  I was rather sorry my first visit was just part of the full day's walk that had been planned.  It would be well worth returning for lingering exploration and taking time to let the special atmosphere of the valley sink in, although it does slow the walker down rather anyway because of the terrain underfoot.  Butterbur was in flower in several places, and I also saw for the first time scarlet elf cap fungus which was a lovely sight.

Crags of Chee Tor across the river Wye

The valley remains deep and steep sided towards Miller's Dale, but not quite with the intensity in the landscape of Chee Dale.  Miller's Dale is where a road is able to cross the valley - the only through road crossing between Buxton and Ashford in the Water.   It is also the place with another soaring viaduct, this time double line structures above the road and river.  There is a small village in the valley with a pub and a church, set amongst the woods and steep valley sides.

Miller's Dale

A dead end lane leads along the valley towards Litton Mill, almost completing the loop to where the river was crossed earlier in the day.  The main feature is the limestone crag above the road, near Ravenstor youth hostel.

Crag by the lane from Litton Mill

The crag is part of a narrow spur or wedge of high ground between the Wye valley and Tideswell Dale, the final stretch of the walk.  It is rather less spectacular but still a very pleasant and varied walk in itself, with the view opening out at one stage to Hammerton Hill.  A concessionary footpath means that no road walking is required towards Tideswell, although there is a pavement anyway.   The road to Litton is followed as it completes the gradual climb away from the Wye back to the more upland surroundings of the village, at the end of a most satisfying and enjoyable walk.

Entering Litton from Tideswell Dale

Peak District Walk (1) - Eyam and Wardlow

Date of walk: Feb 16th, 2012.  Distance: 10.5 miles.  Start: Eyam village. 


An illustrated description of the walk, click on any picture to enlarge, or to view as a slideshow.



The first thing was to get some new boots.  This was quickly accomplished in Bakewell where there seemed an offer too good to miss.  A few weeks and almost 60 miles underfoot later, I am pleased with the purchase.  10 miles might not always be advised for breaking in new boots, but my confidence seems to have been well placed.

Eyam is a village with a well known and moving historical event that resonates to this day.  It was touching to walk past the cottage where the plague first struck - there are plaques around the village, and there is also a local museum.  Many other houses around the village were afflicted, but the villagers imposed an embargo on the whole community whereby contact was forbidden, thus helping to prevent the spread of disease to other communities.  Indeed a story of suffering and sacrifice back in the year of 1665.

Plague Cottage, Eyam

Today the village is quite large and appears to be a thriving rural community, despite the many concerns there are over the often hidden stresses and expense of life in the countryside these days.  It was a delightful walk into the countryside leading down to the village of Stoney Middleton, with fine view over the village and the valley beyond.  It was mainly dull at this stage, but with hints of brightness and possible sunshine.

Overlooking Stoney Middleton

Stoney Middleton is familiar to travellers along the main road, which leaves an open valley and dives into a narrow and confined valley between limestone cliffs.  There is plenty of interest away from the main road, and it was pleasant to wander through the part of the village in the picture with a minor detour to the church on the left, which is of a most unusual design and really rather attractive, and then along the main road for a short way.  Even then I did not see the other side of the village climbing up the hillside on the other side of the narrow valley to the right of the picture.

I was heading for another narrow limestone valley, one without the distraction of the traffic of a major road.  The way to it was by a line of trees seen in the top right of the above picture, towards Combs Dale.  The valley is steep sided and wooded, so on the rather dull morning did not lend itself to photography.  There is a very good track, and the scenery becomes fairly typical of a steep sided limestone valley.  There is a lot of evidence of the historic lead mining industry in the area.  Toward the top I rested for some lunch while still reasonably sheltered from the cool breeze.  A little while later fine views back down the valley could be enjoyed.

View down Combs Dale

I ought perhaps to share a little about how I enjoy my walks, and the added interest from the thought that is necessary when writing up an account.  It is simply that I enjoy walking and seeing the lie of the land, with something of an interest in the plants and trees.  It is always fascinating to plan a route on the map and see how the landscape actually unfolds underfoot when in a new area.  In recent times photography has become an increasingly important element, so I try to allow time for numerous brief stops to record views and details as I pass.  I do not normally go with the specific intent of waiting for the perfect conditions, and I want to simply give an impression of what it was like when I passed that way.

It is usually not until I get home that I start thinking in more depth about the places visited, about what life was like for villagers in previous generations, or for the lead miners in times gone by.  If I revisit places, a growing sense of the history and context should develop.  What I enjoyed at the time was simply the view down the valley with the steep sided interlocking spurs hopefully making a decent photo....

The next section of the walk was interesting, but not by any means a pretty corner of the Peak District countryside.  Towards Longstone Moor there had been a long history of lead mining with spoil heaps left in the area.  Since then the fluorspar in the spoil and in the limestone generally has become more valuable commercially and has recently been exploited on a large scale in the area.  There is a fair bit of controversy between the industrialists and the environmentalists.  Anyway, one of the results is a dam with a large area  wet ground and lagoon rather than a proper lake or reservoir.  There are warning signs of quicksands and danger of drowning in the water.  There are large muddy tracks which are obviously used by heavy vehicles at times.  It all looks rather desolate, but was nevertheless another element in a walk full of variety and interest.

On Longstone Moor

Just west of the lake or lagoon, in its unusual upland setting, the watershed is reached with fresh views opening out to the west.  Limestone country is so varied.  Often there are deep valleys and rocky outcrops, but in other places like this there is a wide open upland grassy plateau with gentle slopes.  The network of fields divided by dry stone walls is one of the most distinctive features.  No doubt it can often seem rather bleak and windswept around Wardlow, but it can also be lovely in the spring and summer when the meadows grow in those extra vivid shades of green associated with limestone grassland.  Even in February, the brief interlude of sunshine I experienced transformed the scene.

Fields around Wardlow

By the time I reached the village the clouds were closing in once again.  Wardlow is one of those linear villages that seems to lack a real heart or village feel, but it is easy to see how the line of development grew along the route of the road.  Many of the individual houses are attractive, but it appears above all to be a working farm community with lots of barns and machinery around.  Arriving by the chapel and the old red telephone box, I turned left (south) for a short distance before picking up another path heading west.  The path was between walls, indicating an old route for the movement of sheep which graze much of the land in the area.

Path between walls near Wardlow

The path seemed to be simply continuing across open plateau land, but a surprise was in store, even when the map clearly indicated a change in the landscape.  Over the brow the land suddenly gives way at the edge of a deep valley cutting right across the line of the picture above.  This is just part of Cressbrook Dale, a tributary of the River Wye which flows along a tortuous valley with distinct sections given different names such as Chee Dale, Miller's Dale and Monsal Dale.  The change of view is really quite dramatic - at least in comparison with what much of southern and eastern England has to offer - and certainly best appreciated and savoured when travelling on foot.

Cressbrook Dale

The picture shows how the camera can often struggle to do justice to the scale of a landscape, and is also dependant on light quality for the best results.  Many landscapes can be fully enjoyed and appreciated in situ in a wide range of conditions, but can be elusive on camera.  Yes, the colours were rather subdued, but the atmosphere of the place was still rather grand and the walk slanting down to the valley floor was most enjoyable.  The sense of enclosure was strong after the open upland, and yet the there was also the sense of shelter to contrast with the ruggedness.  Upstream the valley was narrower with smooth stony sides, apart from the remarkable rocky tower of Peter's Stone and the side valley of Tansley Dale.  A road to Litton goes right along the top edge, taking away something of the secretive nature of the valley.  There are small limestone crags in many places.

Limestone crag, upper Cressbrook Dale

Suddenly the upper valley seems to merge into the plateau, near Wardlow Mires where the main road passes.  Once the road junction and a few yards of the main road are negotiated, a path winds north through the farm buildings and strikes through open fields to Stanley house.  By now the cloud had closed in and it was a steady drizzle and light rain.  Even so, the landscape looked very atmospheric, but in a way once again that is difficult to capture on camera.  The scattering of farmhouses and field barns helped.

Limestone upland west of Foolow, in the mist

The route crossed the minor valley of Silly Dale, and through many walled fields into the upland village of Foolow.  Unlike Wardlow, it has a real village feel, nestling around a village green and pond.  The path suddenly leaves the fields and goes past pleasant cottages and their gardens to the green - another nice moment on the varied walk.  Even on a dull day, limestone as a building material looks bright and attractive.

Village scene, Foolow

Around here, several of the higher villages have "low" in their name, and even some of the hills, such as High Low near Monyash.  I have not verified the detail, but it seems rather like the use of "law" in the Scottish borders.  It certainly does not mean that the places are low down.  A lane goes directly to Eyam, but there is a footpath set nicely back in the large open fields, giving a moorland feel to much of the final stretch of the walk back to the starting place.  The main landmark is crossing another small limestone valley called Linen Dale, which looks almost too neat to be natural, as can be the case with limestone.  There are a number of trees, solitary and in small groups, which on a dull day always add to the visual interest.

Linen Dale, east of Foolow, Eyam Edge beyond

The rain eased and the sky gradually brightened, although the sun never really came through until on the way home in the car.  Eventually the ground trends slightly downhill and the village of Eyam comes into view.  This walk helps to appreciate the relatively large size of the village, and it certainly looks worth exploring in more detail on further visits should the opportunities arise.

Village scene, Eyam