An epic Derbyshire walk - the Kinder Edges

Date of walk -12th May 2012.  Distance - 17.5 miles.  Start - Edale, Grindsbrook Booth.

This walk had been planned in advance, only to be undertaken on a good clear day since it was to be my first visit to the Kinder plateau.  By the standards of England and the south, this is a remote and challenging area, with a considerable reputation.  Having now walked the edges, I would be confident to revisit any section of the walk in more adverse conditions.  There are two or three key points (path junctions) to bear in mind, and just three or four short sections where the path is difficult to follow on the ground.  The edges themselves and the generally good paths make the route finding really quite straightforward, although things could quickly become more difficult if straying onto the plateau by mistake.  Anyway, it is definitely worth choosing a good day for a first visit to get an overall impression of the wonders of Kinder and its surroundings.

The day was memorable from start to finish.  There were only three downsides all day, and the first was almost forgiven and forgotten - the expensive car parking.  The second was the constant passage of aeroplanes which rather spoiled the sense of being in the wild.  The third was getting more complaints from my knees when descending than I have previously experienced.  Otherwise, apart from being able to see Manchester at one stage, everything was fine.  (I suppose Manchester does at least get the benefit in return of views of Kinder and the southern Pennines from the urban sprawl).

The sky was a cloudless blue when setting out at 8.30 from the car park.  Ahead of me were more early walkers who had just left a train at the station and were also heading for the hills.  It was very pleasant strolling through the village, passing the church and the start of the Pennine Way.  I continued ahead along the lane which soon becomes a track.

Grindsbrook Booth

The track soon becomes a private drive, with the path leaving right across the stream.  Even in the village, the hills loom to the north, and the valley is scenic from the start.  Not that I remained at valley level for long. Very soon a path leaves the valley floor heading up the steep slopes of the The Nab in a series of zig zags.  It is a very well engineered and graded climb, providing a most enjoyable way of gaining height towards the tops.  The views up Grindsbrook Clough are grand, as are views that open out over Edale.

View to Grindsbrook Clough

The path arrives at a great viewpoint on the ridge of The Nab, but turns to continue the climb up the hillside. Eventually Ringing Roger with its line of rocks along the crest appears, still a fair bit higher.  I had decided to take an anti-clockwise route, and I really enjoyed the way that the route unfolded through the day and would not hesitate to recommend it.  No doubt the other way round would also be good, and there are other options to use as starting points.  By now the green of the valley was left behind, and even by this stage in May there was little green up on the tops apart from patches where bilberry was dominant.  The bracken was yet to emerge, and heather rarely gives a really green looking cover.

Below Ringing Roger

Already fair weather clouds were beginning to appear, and the skies were never to be quite as blue again as they had been at the start.  However it remained an ideal day for walking throughout, with good visibility and bright or sunny periods.  There was a light to moderate, coolish breeze (April and May this year have been cool after the unseasonal warmth of March).  A path rises gently across the moorland below the rocks, leaving the visible path just beyond the knoll on the right in the foreground, reaching the skyline beyond the right hand edge of the picture above.  Already, the only steep climb of the day was behind, only the distance to be covered remained the challenge.  I personally would not be keen to tackle a complete round on a short winter day.  It would turn into more of an ordeal to finish before dark rather than being able to savour the journey.  The plateau is almost gained by the time the headwaters of Oller Brook are crossed, where the first of the fine downward views can be seen.

Looking down Oller Brook

I took the lower of the two paths shown on the 1:25,000 map, and it certainly provides good views throughout, but keeps just below the level of the plateau which remains something of a mystery for a while yet.  If the plateau beckons, take the upper path.  The two people seen here were the only walkers I met between leaving Grindsbrook Booth and reaching the area of Seal Stones quite a bit later on.  It would be possible to shorten the round by heading north across the plateau by the trig point, thereby cutting off quite a corner, but I was determined to do a "proper" round of the edges.  The next section is some of the easiest walking of the day, with an easygoing moorland footpath.  The plateau here generally just merges into the hillside without the defined edge most of the way round, but there are a few rocky outcrops in places.

Rocky outcrop, Rowland Cote Moor

 Lady Booth Brook is crossed next, with the path crossing moorland into the distance.

Moorland footpath - easy walking

A definite corner is reached, but we are still not furthest east.  The headwaters of Jaggers Clough dominate the next section.  "Jagger" comes from a local word for a pedlar or traveller, indicating the valley was used as a route for trades people or for moving animals.  All the streams crossed have a similar basic pattern, with steep sided valleys, rocky floors with little stepped waterfalls and peaty coloured water.  Yet each one has its own individual character, and the view down Jaggers Clough is certainly grand.

Jaggers Clough

Once again the view ahead is along a path heading relentlessly ENE.  But this time there really is the sense of reaching a turning point, as the route is now making for Crookstone Knoll.  The presence of a wall is a rare sight on this open moorland.

Heading towards Crookstone Knoll

On reaching the brow in the distance on the picture above, I saw some of the few sheep of the day.

Sheep, Crookstone Knoll

Just beyond the end of the wall, it is necessary to keep slightly left maintaining altitude rather than taking any path that descends ahead.  The arrival at the rocks on the northern edge of Crookstone Knoll is a grand moment, with news views opening out to the north, and one of the most significant turning points of the day finally reached.  To me, it is definitely worth including Crookstone Knoll in a circuit of the edges.  It is a grand spot in its own right, and certainly marks the eastern point of the plateau.  The sudden drama of having an onward and downward view to the north is captivating.

Downward view from Crookstone Knoll

Gradually the eyes look turn to take in the views to the west and the northwest.  The scene is grand, but also challenging as far as the prospects for the day are concerned.  I looked at a distant prow of northward thrusting moorland and realised it was Fairbrook Naze, and that I was expecting to go all that way and beyond on the westward trek across the north facing edges of the plateau.  The scale of the landscape starts to really hit home at this point.  Today, at least, I was glad to be up to the challenge, and tried not not take any notice of feeling daunted by the long miles to go.

Crookstone Knoll with Fairbrook Naze in the distance

 Apart from the rock in the foreground, the nearer moorland is rounded with little sense of the character of the majority of the route lying ahead.  The next section is little frequented, route finding may well prove a bit tricky, and the landscape less inspiring than much of the route, so it is unlikely to be regarded as a highlight of the day by many.  There are some grouse butts showing that it is at least an area appreciated by those from the sporting fraternity.  The northward bulge in the path shown on the maps is one of the trickiest bits of the route to follow on the ground, but its worth rounding the slopes rather than heading on to the plateau if in doubt.  The important thing is to find the path heading to Blackden Edge.

The next stretch of the walk builds slowly.  The gentle moorland gradually becomes the plateau with the sharply defined edge that is so distinctive of Kinder.  Rocky outcrops begin to reappear, so that, after some distance, this is the sort of view that is the reward.

Blackden Edge view

It was grand on such a clear day with the mix of sun and cloud.  It becomes increasingly difficult to make a selection of pictures, and to describe the route ahead - they are poor substitutes for being out on the ground and doing the walk.  However, armchair travel is a great pleasure for many, myself included, so I will persevere in the attempt to provide a taste of the experience on the day I was able to do the journey.  The circuit of the head of the Blackden valley develops into one of the real highlights of the walk.

Above Blackden Brook

Path at the head of Blacden Brook

The path crosses the top of steep sweeping slopes a little below the rim of the plateau, providing a fine sense of being in the landscape.  For me it was among the airiest and and most enjoyable sections of the whole day.  The above picture hardly does justice to the scale or the steepness of the slope.  The walking itself remains easy going, and there are few route finding problems all the way between here and Kinder Low.  The open, sweeping, grassy slopes give way to more intimate views as the succession of small streams is crossed which drain the nearby section of the plateau.  Each has its own little rocky valley, and they all drop steeply down the hillside.

Headwaters of the Blackden valley

View down Blackden Brook

Stream heading off the plateau

A short climb leads to the first of the two great northward thrusts of the plateau edge, onto Blackden Moor and the Seal Stones.  The map does not help in identifying exactly which specific rocky outcrop should bear the name, or whether it is a more general name.  There is a rocky rim almost all the way, and scatterings of rock out into the plateau as well.  Once around the prow, Seal Edge is rather similar to Blackden Edge with sweeping slopes (not quite so steep) down to the right.  One of the few walkers seen before reaching Fair Brook helps to provide a sense of scale.

Seal Edge

The ground is covered quite quickly, and some sense of purpose does need to be maintained with a walk of this length.  Towards Fair Brook the rock formations become more striking, and the landscape in general becomes rockier.  Almost anywhere the millstone grit creates formations which can be likened to faces in profile.

Rock formation by the edge south of Fair Brook

The rock on the left seems to gazing out over the Woodlands valley.....  Even on a long day out, walkers should take some time to follow suit, the views are just grand and worth drinking in.  The circuit of Fair Brok, is, however, a considerable effort.  Walking this way, the path curves further and further left and becomes rockier, some of the most difficult conditions underfoot of the day with slightly awkward rocks with gaps and holes between.

Fair Brook below the plateau

Finally the path crosses the stream and turns sharply to gain the prow of Fairbrook Naze, another of the real highlights of the circuit.  This is the point that has been the target ever since Crookstone Knoll, which now seems a long time ago.  The corner is an airy spot, and the edge itself is the most sharply defined section of all with quite high drops down to the gentler slopes below.  Just near there corner there is a little rock chimney.

Fairbrook Naze

Indeed, the next section is known simply as The Edge, as though it was the only one worth the name for miles around......  Heading west, you gradually become aware that you are heading for the real watershed of the country.  Eventually parts of Manchester come into view, and I was very aware of the many aeroplanes passing over the moors en route to the airport.  The contrast seemed very dramatic, indicating how varied and compact the landscapes of these islands can be.  Apart from the traffic crossing the Woodhead Pass, the moors seemed quiet, but bustling cities are very close at hand.  For me, personally, the contrast feels a bit uncomfortable.  Some of the Yorkshire Pennine towns actually in the valleys and hills seem to find their place within the landscape and have a sense of belonging together, but Manchester, to me, just seems that bit detached, in an uneasy clash of different worlds.

Path by The Edge

The Edge has more than its share of rock formations, and would be a good objective for more leisurely exploration.  I would rather like to visit on one of those wild days when most other people stay off the hills.  It would seem appropriate to see and experience the landscape in those conditions - and Manchester would be out of sight and out of mind.  Apologies to loyal Mancunians, but I have probably already dug myself too far into a hole to make amends now......

Contrast - walking by The Edge, Manchester in the distance

The Edge gradually becomes less distinct, almost merging into the moorland.  However, some of the most most distinctive individual rock formations are further towards the west.  Many of them have names, The Boxing Glove seemed the most obvious to me on this rapid first visit.

Rock formation - a mountaineering pig?

Rock formation - "The Boxing Glove"

One of my favourite pictures of the day was looking back along The Edge on the approach to the northwestern corner of the plateau.

The Edge, from the west

It is easy to cut off a little bit of the acute corner - a gate in the fence is a handy guide.  Soon I was on the Pennine Way path with a whole new viewpoint, heading south, a definite "homeward bound" turning point for the walk, although well over half way round.  There were more people in evidence most of the way back.  It was good to see others enjoying and appreciating the area, but I was also glad to have enjoyed the quieter sections of walk earlier in the day.  The Kinder Reservoir is a lovely element in a fine view of hills and valleys extending away into the distance.  The mix of fields and woods in the landscape gives a different feel to the view than the rough open expanses of moorland seen from The Edge.  The view down the path to the reservoir looked an especially inviting walk for a future date.

Path down to the Kinder Reservoir

By now one of the most famous landmarks of the day was on my mind, if not yet in sight.  From this direction, Kinder Downfall only gradually unfolds into view ahead.  When the cleft does begin to come into view, it looks somehow insignificant and disappointing, but this is rather deceptive.  Eventually the truth becomes more apparent, and usually there are people around to help with the scale.

Kinder Downfall

At the head of Kinder Downfall

It is undoubtedly one of the highlights of the day, no doubt popular because it is on the route of the Pennine Way.  It is exposed to westerly winds, and the stream is famous for blowing water back out onto the plateau in wild conditions.  Even today, with just a light breeze, a gentle spray reached the path in one or two spots. Another place I would like to visit on one of those wild days that are not unheard of in the area.....

The route march continued, and it was necessary to leave the edge slightly to visit the top of Kinder Low.  It is not quite the highest point of the plateau, but close enough to the edge to be in easy reach on the circuit.  I ended up cutting a bit of a corner off the intended route.  But Kinder Low deserves a mention and a picture - it is one of the weirdest places I have visited.  It is nothing other than an odd mix of peat and rock.  Appropriately enough, the sun was behind cloud at this point of the walk, adding to the atmosphere.

Kinder Low

I vaguely wandered south then curving east to merge with the path near Noe Stool, an isolated rock formation that would not attract attention if it was near the downfall.  An easy going stretch led towards more rocky outcrops coming into view.

Noe Stool and beyond

The following section near the skyline and beyond is truly remarkable.  The 1:50,000 map names a couple of features like Pym Chair and Crowden Tower, but the 1:25,000 has the name "Wool Packs" amidst a scattering of rock symbols.  This is a section where it really would be easy to get lost when under thick cloud.  The path loses its identity as each visitor threads a route among a maze of rocks with peaty channels between.  It is almost eerie, even on a fine day.  The mix of peat and rock makes the going quite tricky underfoot.

Among the Wool Packs

Eventually the rocks give way to moorland walking - there is no distinct edge until arriving above Crowden Brook.  Here there is the first view back down into Edale, although a considerable journey along the edges remains in order to complete the circuit.  It would be possible to drop down to the valley here if time, tiredness or conditions made it necessary.

Above Crowden Brook, Edale beyond. 

Crowden Brook and Grindsbrook Clough are the two major features.  The variety and interest of the walk is maintained.  One important route finding point is not to continue straight ahead onto Grindslow Knoll but to take a left turn to the head of Grindbrook Clough.  In order to claim a proper circuit I ignored the descent and continued doggedly on.  An arm of Grindsbrook Clough makes quite a detour, but the scenery is grand.

View from above Grindsbrook Clough

The head of Grindsbrook Clough

The views down Grindsbrook Clough into Edale are some of the best of the day - this section is by no means an anticlimax after a long day.  The southward views from this side of the plateau are special because of the realisation that, apart from a couple of small areas of the Dartmoor tors, this is the southernmost area of land with a height of over 2,000 feet in England.  And there is a final individual take on a millstrone grit rock formation, just when you think every possibility must already have been seen several times over....

Rock formation, Upper Tor

View down Grindsbrook to Edale

After Upper Tor, the edge declines past Nether Tor, and finally the path on the Golden Clough side of Ringing Roger is reached, and the circuit closed below its summit.  Both my knees complained during the descent, but this was the longest and toughest walk for a year or more.  The views compensated, and the final picture shows a sunny prospect over Edale.

It was lovely descending and reaching valley level after the long circuit of the plateau.  "Tired, but happy" is the well used but appropriate description for the feeling on reaching the car park.

Prospect over Edale from the path below Ringing Roger

This walk deserves nothing less than a ringing recommendation.  It was a truly memorable day out, just the right length for a challenge without becoming a head down, route march type of expedition.  I would not want to tackle the whole route on short winter days, but longer days allow the landscape to be experienced properly en route.  I was very happy with the choice of starting point, the route, and the direction taken.  Top marks!