Peak District walk (4) - Around Ashford in the Water and Taddington

Date of walk: Mar 13th, 2012.  Distance 14.75 miles.  Start: Ashford in the Water village. 

An illustrated account of the walk, click on any picture to enlarge, or to view as a slideshow. 

Ashford in the Water is an attractive Peak District village by the River Wye as it emerges from deep set valleys into a somewhat gentler landscape.  I started between the church and the old bridge which is now closed to traffic.  There are plenty of attractive stone built cottages, and thankfully the main A6 road stays just the other side of the river.

Fennel Street, Ashford in the Water

Just beyond a village crossroads, on Vicarage Lane, a path climbs left to cut a corner to the quaintly named Pennyunk Lane which climbs the gentle east facing slopes of Fin Cop.  It was dull and slightly misty, but very pleasant for walking.  Views gradually opened up behind.  The path soon reaches the lane which soon becomes a farm track between walls and later a footpath by the edge of open fields.

Pennyunk Lane near Ashford in the Water

The lane twists and turns even though the gradient is gentle.  It is an ideal start to a long walk, gaining height without too much effort being required.  The broad slopes are well tended and farmed, with a couple of restored dewponds which are important habitats for amphibians, including newts in this particular locality.  They were created on the quickly draining limestone grassland to provide water for livestock.  There are a couple of field barns as well.

Pennyunk Lane and the broad slopes of Fin Cop

The path stays below the skyline and turns north towards Monsal Head.  Unusually, I was hungry at a very early stage of the walk and stopped to break into the supplies, looking out over the fields towards Longstone.  The path finally does reach the crest and the contrast of the other side of the hill is suddenly revealed at the top of steep wooded slopes above Monsal Dale.  A couple of seats are provided close to the edge.  The path continues along the very rim and is quite impressive, with the viaduct eventually being glimpsed through the trees.

Path by the rim of Monsal Dale

Without the trees I am sure the path would feel quite exposed.  The edge drops slightly to the lane at Monsal Head, which is followed for a short distance when heading for the viaduct.  The viaduct takes a bit of the sting out a considerable descent early in the walk.  Following this, the rest of the walk basically only has one major climb and one long descent towards the end.  The viaduct provides airy views of the valley, and the tunnels which were closed for many years can now be followed along the Monsal Trail.  The climbing starts immediately on crossing the viaduct, by taking a rising path to the left, towards Putwell Hill and Brushfield.  The sun began to shine rather weakly and intermittently, but it was warm for the time of year.

Valley views from the track to Putwell Hill 

Eventually this track reaches the other rim of Monsal Dale, but the views were hazy and indistinct, and my pictures were no good, lacking any detail, or the atmospheric look that such conditions can bring.  It should still be noted as one of the highlights of the varied and interesting route that was unfolding.  In this part of the Peak District the name of the area seems particularly inappropriate, as all the drama is confined to the valleys, with wide open uplands beyond and nothing remotely like a peak in sight.  The uplands provide easy country walking, however, and are an integral part of the variety in the landscape.  Brushfield Lodge is on a tongue of land which marks the transition between the two types of landscape, perched above the steep wooded sides of Monsal Dale and Taddington Dale.

Upland pasture near Brushfield Lodge

The landscape ahead begins to unfold with views towards Taddington, with the valley down to the left.  The track provides very easy walking, heading slightly downhill to the hamlet of Brushfield.  It is apparent from the various notices that the rough track is open for use by limited number of four wheel drive vehicles and motorcycles, with requests for respectful and courteous use.  All was quiet on that front today, with just one business van heading up to the lodge.  The approach to Brushfield is especially attractive, and I was very taken with the little cluster of farm buildings and cottages on the south facing slopes.

Brushfield from the east

The trees provide shelter from westerly winds.  The little lane beyond does a hairpin into the side valley of High dale before heading for the main road.  This too is a very pleasant walk, I think meriting the two pictures that follow without further comment.

Lane from Brushfield

Hairpin bend, High Dale, near Brishfield

I left the lane at the hairpin and headed a short distance up the valley, soon finding the path that turns sharply left slanting up the hillside to cut a corner towards Taddington, thus avoiding any walking along the main A6. One of the fields was densely packed with sheep which had a good supply of additional food scattered across the ground. the path also rewards with good views of the valleys around Taddington.  For the sake of the report it is difficult having to be selective in the pictures, but the following one gives the best overall impression of this section.

Valley views towards Taddington

The track down to the main road was delightful, typical limestone grassland with a hint of surface rock and scattered trees.  It comes out exactly opposite the turn for the lane to Taddington village, which is a bonus for walkers.  The lane uses the left hand valley in the above picture, leading gently up to the east end of the village.  The main street has plenty of character, although the sense on just passing through was that it has slightly more of a workaday atmosphere than some of the pretty spruced up villages not far away.  It is not one of the better known touristy villages, perhaps all the better and more authentic for that.  It is a relatively large village, but if there is a village shop I did not see it.  The church is lovely, and I had further refreshments by the churchyard gate near the war memorial with its poignant roll call of names.

Taddington church

Taddington Moor rises further to the southwest, sheltering the village, which itself is at over 1,000 feet above sea level.  Slipperlow Lane and the path above provide excellent views over the village, providing it with that special sense of a place deeply tied in to its location and landscape.

Overlooking Taddington

Over the brow of the hill a new world is entered with an expanse of the open moorland and rough grazing.  The ground is the highest for some distance around, culminating at Chelmorton Low to the east, but the gradients are generally very gentle, so once again there is nothing that could be called a peak.  Still, the walking is straightforward, and with larks singing it was quite grand.  The large number of stone walls to be negotiated by the stiles is the only obstacle to rapid progress.  The sun was out, but still hazy with distant views lacking.

On Taddington Moor

The main landmark is the upland farm at Fivewells Farms, which must be cold and windswept at times, but today was a fine, tranquil location.  A tractor was at work on the improved grassland, which was very well cultivated for such altitude.  In places the rough, uncultivated moorland grass provided a clear indication of the work required to produce such fine dining for the sheep.  Eventually the path reached the horizon in line with the wall trending slightly left, at the brow of the short descent to the village of Chelmorton.  The church and the pub are at the top end where the path enters the north end of the village. This has an even more of an upland feel than Taddington, and must be rather exposed to westerly winds.  Still, the houses generally have the sturdy stone, well-built look of the area, very suited to the surroundings.

Houses in Chelmorton

Much of the village lines along a single street, notable for an unusual stone built telephone box with green trim.  A path heads back regaining most of the little bit of lost height, but the village is well worth visiting.  I rather regretted missing the top of Chelmorton Low, but it was already a good long walk.  From the lane there was a good view back over the village with the strip fields either side.   It really has a sense of being off the beaten track, and again it had very much a character of its own.

Chelmorton village below Chelmorton Low

Strip fields above Chelmorton

The route ahead involved some road walking, although it could be extended somewhat by using a path towards the village of Flagg.  The lane is generally quiet and has good verges and is much better than most for walking.  It heads easily over the gentle plateau south of the higher parts of Taddington Moor, and keeps north of the rather isolated village of Flagg.

Country road near Flagg

Eventually, after passing the crossroads in the picture above, the next lane from Flagg on the right turns opposite a track which was taken away from the road.  It led past some modern farm buildings and trended right, across quiet moorland, or grassland which was somewhat rougher than the pastures around Fivewells Farms earlier.  It really is a place to sense the quietness and tranquility on a calm day.  The distant views were still refusing to clear, but I stopped briefly for the next round of light refreshments.  At about that point I got the following picture of a field barn with the hazy background.

Field barn below Taddington Moor

After passing some rougher ground which indicated a former mining area, a footpath crossroads saw the left turn cutting a corner on the way back towards Taddington village.  The path comes out at a lane junction just before the ground starts to trend down north towards the village.  The road was followed briefly to the first track leaving to the right which headed down towards the east end of the village.  It was a lovely walk skirting round the hill at the edge of the village.

Above Taddington

I kept above the dead end lane to Over Wheal, eventually joining it near Lodley View.  There was an especially fine view overlooking Coombs Farm to Monsal Dale and Fin Cop.  The open moorland I was on was slightly higher than the top of Fin Cop, which seems such a significant top when approaching from the east.

Coombs Farm, Monsal Dale and Fin Cop

There is an extensive range of farm buildings at Over Wheal, not necessarily as attractive as might be hoped for such a setting, but there is a sense of the hard work that must be required to farm the area viably, however lovely the surroundings.  Soon there are the first views of Deep Dale, the next objective on the walk.  After passing the farm, a grassy footpath soon leaves, trending left towards the rim of the valley.

A view of Deep Dale

To the left of the picture, Deep Dale Lodge is perched in a terrific location.  The valley is once again a nature reserve, maintained for the variety and profusion of the wild flowers that so thrive in these limestone areas.  A short steep descent led to the upper valley floor, and then it was simply a matter of following the valley floor gently down past the steep slopes.  The next picture gives an impression of being down in the valley.

In Deep Dale, Fin Cop rising beyond

Lower down, the western side becomes more wooded and the valley eventually becomes less well defined, although above the main valley floor of the river Wye.  The path trends right.  To avoid walking along the main A6, a path is signposted slightly right again for both Sheldon and Ashford in the Water.  It climbs increasingly steeply to woodland.  The Sheldon path continues up the very steep slopes, and the Ashford path dives into woodland, climbing just a little.  All of a sudden you realise you are on a very steep wooded hillside high above the A6.  The height, steepness and narrowness of the path were just with the toleration limits for my vertigo, but plenty of people might find it too much.  Of course mountaineers would consider it a mere stroll.  However it reminded me of the need and wish for a lot more proper hill walking to try and regain more of a head for heights.  With all the trees and the north facing shade it was impossible to get a real impression in a picture.

Path across steep hillside, Great Shacklow Wood

The path continues in this vein for a fair distance, and is certainly a major feature of the whole walk.  The slope finally eases and the path curves gently down to the valley floor.  There follows a delightful riverside stroll, adding yet another variation to the walk, thankfully opposite the busy traffic of the A6.  An old sawmill is passed by near a bridge, a weir and flood level measurement post.  One of my favourite pictures of the day was near the end, just focussing on a short stretch of the river and valley floor in the afternoon sunshine.

River Wye above Ashford in the Water

The path merges with the lane from Sheldon, and a very short stretch along the A6 (with a good pavement) leads to the historic bridge crossing mentioned at the start.  That famous spot I will omit from the pictures, as the light was not ideal, and I much preferred the results I obtained of the attractive church from the spot where I had parked the car and found it safely awaiting my return.  Truly a walk to savour and a route to recommend with enthusiasm, even considering the stretch of road walking after Chelmorton.

Church, Ashford in the Water

Peak District walk (3) - Litton and Chee Dale

Date of walk: Feb 8th, 2012.  Distance 13 miles.  Start: Litton village. 

An illustrated account of the walk, click on any picture to enlarge, or to view as a slideshow.

Litton, like so many of the Peak District villages, has a distinct character, and is an excellent place to start a walk.  It has been a prolonged dry and mild period of weather, although often dull, and today was no exception.  These are excellent conditions for comfortable walking, but a little more challenging for photography, at least if a riot of colour is the aim.  Litton is on high ground, but not far from some steep limestone valleys typical of the area.  Some of these valleys and their surroundings were the focus for the walk.

So the direction was southeast, away from the village, heading for the first valley called Tansley Dale.  It starts just as a shallow dip in the fields near the village, with their full share of limestone walls.  Quickly though, the sides steepen and you dive down into the confined world of limestone valleys.  The views are restricted but full of interest, therefore good destinations when conditions are not great for long distance vistas.  It was also like entering a visual representation of a fractal - Tansley Dale leads into the larger Cressbrook Dale which goes down to the still larger valley of the River Wye.

Tansley Dale into Cressbrook Dale, near Litton

In this type of limestone scenery, the landscape seems compact, with fresh views around every corner, and the corners come thick and fast.  It makes for very satisfying walking country, and you can very quickly feel off the beaten track and escape the crowds, even in such a popular National Park, so close to large urban centres in all directions.  There are many of these valleys which are destinations in their own right and become thronged with walkers, but there are enough for some with fine enough scenery to remain fairly quiet.  On reaching Cressbrook Dale I turned right to head downstream.  Beyond an open section with some crags, the valley becomes well wooded.  The valley floors are typically shaded and damp, excellent sites for mosses and a range of wild flowers - limestone country is renowned for its botanical diversity.  Just on the cusp of spring, the moss in contrasting with the bare trees provided the main visual impact.

Footpath in Cressbrook Dale

Eventually a group of cottages is reached at Ravensdale, and the path turns into a track then a little lane, joining another of the lanes that wind confusingly around the vicinity of Cressbrook village.  Cressbrook Mill, one of the historic textile mills of the area.  Generally Cressbrook was regarded quite favourably, even though women and children were still required to work long and hard hours.  It is located right at the point where the stream down Cressbrook Dale reaches the River Wye, at the lowest point of the walk.  The buildings have been restored and converted into flats - the final industrial action producing nylon ceased in 1965, previously cotton had been the material.  A path sneaks by the mill to the river, turning right to head upstream on the north bank.  The path is right by the water and often prone to flooding.

River path between Cressbrook Mill and Litton Mill

A short section of the valley here rejoices in the name of Water-cum-Jolly Dale.  The river twists and turns so much that sections have their own name, and to this day there is no continuous road up the valley.  Indeed the map needs to be studied quite carefully when driving away from the main routes, to check out how to get to one place from another.  To walk from Cressbrook Mill to Litton Mill is only a mile by the river, but to drive, you have to go up to Litton, down Tideswell Dale to Miller's Dale and up the dead end road to Litton Mill, over five times the distance.  This makes it all the more extraordinary that the valley was chosen as a route for a railway line which was actually built.  The valley is famous for the line with all its tunnels and viaducts, and can be followed by walkers as the Monsal Trail.  Even the tunnels have recently been opened, and cyclists can use the route as well.  The river winds through steeply sided woodland before arriving at Litton Mill.

By Litton Mill

Litton Mill, like Cressbrook Mill, has now been converted into flats.  However, Litton Mill was especially notorious for the unspeakable working conditions, little short of slave labour for young children moved up from London.  I think I would find its strange to live within walls with such a history, even though the surroundings are so beautiful and very tranquil these days.  To keep the walk varied, I crossed the river over a long bridge just by the cottages beyond the mill.  I crossed the Monsal Trail up on the south side of the valley, and climbed up through a reserve called Priestcliffe Lees, or geological and botanical interest.  The views open out over the valley and the limestone scenery with all its particular qualities is laid out.

Wye valley, Derbyshire limestone country

There are many lumps and bumps indicating spoil heaps from historic small scale mineral mining, and there are areas of cliffs and exposed rock.  Towards the top the ground becomes smoother, with the open green pasture land also associated with the rock type.  The contrast always seems striking.  Limestone, being porous, means that these pastures are well drained and almost always provided easy and attractive walking.  Sometimes the plateau areas can seen dull, but they are quite different from the "Black Peak" moorlands further north.  I stopped for a break and refuelling towards the top of the longest steep climb of the day, and soon joined a good track leading towards the hamlet of Priestcliffe, not far from Taddington.

Upland track, soon turns left for Priestcliffe

 Priestcliffe has a real rural air about it, even though within a mile or so of the busy A6 route to Buxton.  The next section involved some road walking, but quiet and pleasant enough, through the further scattered hamlets of Priestcliffe Ditch and Blackwell, either side of the Miller's Dale road.  Strangely, these villages, along with Litton are on the highest sections of the walk.

A farm at Blackwell, across the Miller's Dale road

The short section of the Pennine Bridleway was the epitome of smooth limestone grassland, with little sign of the dramatic scenery close by, below, to the north.  The route curves gently, almost intersecting with the A6, where there are now real indications of the change of scenery.  However, at this stage it is just a fairly small, unremarkable valley heading down to the north.   Quickly the valley becomes deep with steep grassy sides, and soon becomes rocky as the descent continues.  Rounding a rocky band, the Monsal Trail comes into view with a bridge across, which reveals an even more dramatic view - the first impression of what is to come through Chee Dale, undeniably the highlight of the walk.

Former railway cutting and crags, Chee Dale

The valley floor is a little lower down still, with a footbridge across to the Blackwell Mill Cottages.  A sign warns that the Chee Dale footpath is liable to flooding and difficult in places, but starts gently enough, heading downstream, through the trees by the river with views to the crags on the other side.   The first of several viaducts soon appears, confusing until it is realised that not only was a railway built through the valley, but a three way junction with another line through Great Rocks Dale, a line that continues to serve the vast Tunstead limestone quarry nearby.  The next viaduct is the actual Monsal trail crossing the valley.  There are steep steps up to the trail allowing close up views of some of the arches.  The valley path continues, and rock begins to appear lower down closer to river level.  Around a bit of a spur, overhanging crags appear ahead with the first sequence of stepping stones beneath.  The steps are large square blocks with textured surfaces, and not difficult to cross.  Tall people like myself have to mind their heads on the overhanging crag in places.

Chee Dale stepping stones, looking upstream

The steps mark just the start of the most splendid river walk I have encountered, with a real sense of intimacy with water, rock and trees.  For a short distance, low crags hem in the river on both sides and you feel fully engaged with a little world where there is no real sense of the wider geography beyond.

Crags by the river Wye, Chee Dale

The path continues to find unexpectedly straightforward progress close to the river for a while, and then is confronted with the tortuous course past Chee Tor.  Rounding a spur at the first and tightest bend, the path has to divert across footbridges over the river and climb a little way up the valley side with a steep drop below.  The second footbridge is by the next viaduct, and it is clear to be seen why the path divert across the river, because of a awkward crag.  Rounding the corner, the other series of stepping stones can be seen a short way ahead, even more enjoyable for me because the crag is vertical rather than overhanging, and there was more chance to appreciate the surroundings.

Lower Chee Dale stepping stones, looking upstream

Even uploading the picture, I'm taking time to recall a place that really made an impression on me.  I've done plenty of walking, although not much in mountains or rugged terrain recently, so it was really great to have the opportunity to enjoy the route here.  Please take care when planning the route, pets or young children may have difficulties, and there is the obvious danger of flooding.  Another more detailed view of the steps seems in order.

Cheed Dale footsteps, river Wye

Immediately beyond is another feature, with an overhanging crag dripping water over the path, possibly the most dramatic bit scenically of the whole valley.

Crag overhanging the river Wye, Chee Dale

The route ahead looks as though it is about to ease, but there are a couple of steep places above the river still to be negotiated, with fine views across to the craggy ramparts of Chee Tor which has the river on three sides.  I was rather sorry my first visit was just part of the full day's walk that had been planned.  It would be well worth returning for lingering exploration and taking time to let the special atmosphere of the valley sink in, although it does slow the walker down rather anyway because of the terrain underfoot.  Butterbur was in flower in several places, and I also saw for the first time scarlet elf cap fungus which was a lovely sight.

Crags of Chee Tor across the river Wye

The valley remains deep and steep sided towards Miller's Dale, but not quite with the intensity in the landscape of Chee Dale.  Miller's Dale is where a road is able to cross the valley - the only through road crossing between Buxton and Ashford in the Water.   It is also the place with another soaring viaduct, this time double line structures above the road and river.  There is a small village in the valley with a pub and a church, set amongst the woods and steep valley sides.

Miller's Dale

A dead end lane leads along the valley towards Litton Mill, almost completing the loop to where the river was crossed earlier in the day.  The main feature is the limestone crag above the road, near Ravenstor youth hostel.

Crag by the lane from Litton Mill

The crag is part of a narrow spur or wedge of high ground between the Wye valley and Tideswell Dale, the final stretch of the walk.  It is rather less spectacular but still a very pleasant and varied walk in itself, with the view opening out at one stage to Hammerton Hill.  A concessionary footpath means that no road walking is required towards Tideswell, although there is a pavement anyway.   The road to Litton is followed as it completes the gradual climb away from the Wye back to the more upland surroundings of the village, at the end of a most satisfying and enjoyable walk.

Entering Litton from Tideswell Dale