Peak District walk (3) - Litton and Chee Dale

Date of walk: Feb 8th, 2012.  Distance 13 miles.  Start: Litton village. 

An illustrated account of the walk, click on any picture to enlarge, or to view as a slideshow.

Litton, like so many of the Peak District villages, has a distinct character, and is an excellent place to start a walk.  It has been a prolonged dry and mild period of weather, although often dull, and today was no exception.  These are excellent conditions for comfortable walking, but a little more challenging for photography, at least if a riot of colour is the aim.  Litton is on high ground, but not far from some steep limestone valleys typical of the area.  Some of these valleys and their surroundings were the focus for the walk.

So the direction was southeast, away from the village, heading for the first valley called Tansley Dale.  It starts just as a shallow dip in the fields near the village, with their full share of limestone walls.  Quickly though, the sides steepen and you dive down into the confined world of limestone valleys.  The views are restricted but full of interest, therefore good destinations when conditions are not great for long distance vistas.  It was also like entering a visual representation of a fractal - Tansley Dale leads into the larger Cressbrook Dale which goes down to the still larger valley of the River Wye.

Tansley Dale into Cressbrook Dale, near Litton

In this type of limestone scenery, the landscape seems compact, with fresh views around every corner, and the corners come thick and fast.  It makes for very satisfying walking country, and you can very quickly feel off the beaten track and escape the crowds, even in such a popular National Park, so close to large urban centres in all directions.  There are many of these valleys which are destinations in their own right and become thronged with walkers, but there are enough for some with fine enough scenery to remain fairly quiet.  On reaching Cressbrook Dale I turned right to head downstream.  Beyond an open section with some crags, the valley becomes well wooded.  The valley floors are typically shaded and damp, excellent sites for mosses and a range of wild flowers - limestone country is renowned for its botanical diversity.  Just on the cusp of spring, the moss in contrasting with the bare trees provided the main visual impact.

Footpath in Cressbrook Dale

Eventually a group of cottages is reached at Ravensdale, and the path turns into a track then a little lane, joining another of the lanes that wind confusingly around the vicinity of Cressbrook village.  Cressbrook Mill, one of the historic textile mills of the area.  Generally Cressbrook was regarded quite favourably, even though women and children were still required to work long and hard hours.  It is located right at the point where the stream down Cressbrook Dale reaches the River Wye, at the lowest point of the walk.  The buildings have been restored and converted into flats - the final industrial action producing nylon ceased in 1965, previously cotton had been the material.  A path sneaks by the mill to the river, turning right to head upstream on the north bank.  The path is right by the water and often prone to flooding.

River path between Cressbrook Mill and Litton Mill

A short section of the valley here rejoices in the name of Water-cum-Jolly Dale.  The river twists and turns so much that sections have their own name, and to this day there is no continuous road up the valley.  Indeed the map needs to be studied quite carefully when driving away from the main routes, to check out how to get to one place from another.  To walk from Cressbrook Mill to Litton Mill is only a mile by the river, but to drive, you have to go up to Litton, down Tideswell Dale to Miller's Dale and up the dead end road to Litton Mill, over five times the distance.  This makes it all the more extraordinary that the valley was chosen as a route for a railway line which was actually built.  The valley is famous for the line with all its tunnels and viaducts, and can be followed by walkers as the Monsal Trail.  Even the tunnels have recently been opened, and cyclists can use the route as well.  The river winds through steeply sided woodland before arriving at Litton Mill.

By Litton Mill

Litton Mill, like Cressbrook Mill, has now been converted into flats.  However, Litton Mill was especially notorious for the unspeakable working conditions, little short of slave labour for young children moved up from London.  I think I would find its strange to live within walls with such a history, even though the surroundings are so beautiful and very tranquil these days.  To keep the walk varied, I crossed the river over a long bridge just by the cottages beyond the mill.  I crossed the Monsal Trail up on the south side of the valley, and climbed up through a reserve called Priestcliffe Lees, or geological and botanical interest.  The views open out over the valley and the limestone scenery with all its particular qualities is laid out.

Wye valley, Derbyshire limestone country

There are many lumps and bumps indicating spoil heaps from historic small scale mineral mining, and there are areas of cliffs and exposed rock.  Towards the top the ground becomes smoother, with the open green pasture land also associated with the rock type.  The contrast always seems striking.  Limestone, being porous, means that these pastures are well drained and almost always provided easy and attractive walking.  Sometimes the plateau areas can seen dull, but they are quite different from the "Black Peak" moorlands further north.  I stopped for a break and refuelling towards the top of the longest steep climb of the day, and soon joined a good track leading towards the hamlet of Priestcliffe, not far from Taddington.

Upland track, soon turns left for Priestcliffe

 Priestcliffe has a real rural air about it, even though within a mile or so of the busy A6 route to Buxton.  The next section involved some road walking, but quiet and pleasant enough, through the further scattered hamlets of Priestcliffe Ditch and Blackwell, either side of the Miller's Dale road.  Strangely, these villages, along with Litton are on the highest sections of the walk.

A farm at Blackwell, across the Miller's Dale road

The short section of the Pennine Bridleway was the epitome of smooth limestone grassland, with little sign of the dramatic scenery close by, below, to the north.  The route curves gently, almost intersecting with the A6, where there are now real indications of the change of scenery.  However, at this stage it is just a fairly small, unremarkable valley heading down to the north.   Quickly the valley becomes deep with steep grassy sides, and soon becomes rocky as the descent continues.  Rounding a rocky band, the Monsal Trail comes into view with a bridge across, which reveals an even more dramatic view - the first impression of what is to come through Chee Dale, undeniably the highlight of the walk.

Former railway cutting and crags, Chee Dale

The valley floor is a little lower down still, with a footbridge across to the Blackwell Mill Cottages.  A sign warns that the Chee Dale footpath is liable to flooding and difficult in places, but starts gently enough, heading downstream, through the trees by the river with views to the crags on the other side.   The first of several viaducts soon appears, confusing until it is realised that not only was a railway built through the valley, but a three way junction with another line through Great Rocks Dale, a line that continues to serve the vast Tunstead limestone quarry nearby.  The next viaduct is the actual Monsal trail crossing the valley.  There are steep steps up to the trail allowing close up views of some of the arches.  The valley path continues, and rock begins to appear lower down closer to river level.  Around a bit of a spur, overhanging crags appear ahead with the first sequence of stepping stones beneath.  The steps are large square blocks with textured surfaces, and not difficult to cross.  Tall people like myself have to mind their heads on the overhanging crag in places.

Chee Dale stepping stones, looking upstream

The steps mark just the start of the most splendid river walk I have encountered, with a real sense of intimacy with water, rock and trees.  For a short distance, low crags hem in the river on both sides and you feel fully engaged with a little world where there is no real sense of the wider geography beyond.

Crags by the river Wye, Chee Dale

The path continues to find unexpectedly straightforward progress close to the river for a while, and then is confronted with the tortuous course past Chee Tor.  Rounding a spur at the first and tightest bend, the path has to divert across footbridges over the river and climb a little way up the valley side with a steep drop below.  The second footbridge is by the next viaduct, and it is clear to be seen why the path divert across the river, because of a awkward crag.  Rounding the corner, the other series of stepping stones can be seen a short way ahead, even more enjoyable for me because the crag is vertical rather than overhanging, and there was more chance to appreciate the surroundings.

Lower Chee Dale stepping stones, looking upstream

Even uploading the picture, I'm taking time to recall a place that really made an impression on me.  I've done plenty of walking, although not much in mountains or rugged terrain recently, so it was really great to have the opportunity to enjoy the route here.  Please take care when planning the route, pets or young children may have difficulties, and there is the obvious danger of flooding.  Another more detailed view of the steps seems in order.

Cheed Dale footsteps, river Wye

Immediately beyond is another feature, with an overhanging crag dripping water over the path, possibly the most dramatic bit scenically of the whole valley.

Crag overhanging the river Wye, Chee Dale

The route ahead looks as though it is about to ease, but there are a couple of steep places above the river still to be negotiated, with fine views across to the craggy ramparts of Chee Tor which has the river on three sides.  I was rather sorry my first visit was just part of the full day's walk that had been planned.  It would be well worth returning for lingering exploration and taking time to let the special atmosphere of the valley sink in, although it does slow the walker down rather anyway because of the terrain underfoot.  Butterbur was in flower in several places, and I also saw for the first time scarlet elf cap fungus which was a lovely sight.

Crags of Chee Tor across the river Wye

The valley remains deep and steep sided towards Miller's Dale, but not quite with the intensity in the landscape of Chee Dale.  Miller's Dale is where a road is able to cross the valley - the only through road crossing between Buxton and Ashford in the Water.   It is also the place with another soaring viaduct, this time double line structures above the road and river.  There is a small village in the valley with a pub and a church, set amongst the woods and steep valley sides.

Miller's Dale

A dead end lane leads along the valley towards Litton Mill, almost completing the loop to where the river was crossed earlier in the day.  The main feature is the limestone crag above the road, near Ravenstor youth hostel.

Crag by the lane from Litton Mill

The crag is part of a narrow spur or wedge of high ground between the Wye valley and Tideswell Dale, the final stretch of the walk.  It is rather less spectacular but still a very pleasant and varied walk in itself, with the view opening out at one stage to Hammerton Hill.  A concessionary footpath means that no road walking is required towards Tideswell, although there is a pavement anyway.   The road to Litton is followed as it completes the gradual climb away from the Wye back to the more upland surroundings of the village, at the end of a most satisfying and enjoyable walk.

Entering Litton from Tideswell Dale