Peak District Walk (2) - Edale and Mam Tor

Date of walk: Feb 29th, 2012.  Distance: 13 miles.  Start: below Mam Tor, Rushup Edge road.

An illustrated description of the walk, click on any picture to enlarge, or to view as a slideshow.

Those who note the date will realise that it was done on Leap Year Day.  Somehow I had never been to Edale, something that really needed to be rectified.  A rather late and slow start led to time pressure later on, but nevertheless the whole walk was much enjoyed, and the route deserves an enthusiastic recommendation.

The real start for the circuit is the gap between Mam Tor and Rushup Edge where the lane crosses to Edale.  I was only just below the clouds on a dull morning, not the most encouraging start in a new area when you have not done much real hill walking for some time.  I dawdled west up the gentle ridge of Rushup Edge even more slowly than the cloud descended, and soon I was in mist.  Not good when one of the aims was to take photographs.  I decided to try and get a record of the walk anyway, and share the results regardless, so here goes....

Rushup Edge, dead tree, misty Mam Tor

I was glad of the clear path, the well defined ridge, the wall as an extra guide, and the map.  It seemed just like real life has been for the past couple of years - uncertainty all around, and apart from the guidance and encouragement of God's Word, all rather depressing and meaningless.  There were some glimpses down into Edale from the ridge.  Beyond the top at Lord's Seat the ridge widens into a wide plateau, with no downward views even on a clear day.  Here I was even more glad of the track and the wall.  Eventually, though I reached the sign for a junction in the path where the route left the company of the wall and headed further out onto the plateau.  I had to decide whether to go for it, which I did, because at least the track was distinct.

Boggy plateau track and a sheep in the mist

In the end I thought the pictures did quite a good job of conveying the conditions and giving some sense of what it's like to be up on the moors when the clouds are down, which does happen quite frequently.  I have never been purely a fair weather walker, and in fact enjoy and appreciate the varied conditions experienced. I looked out for a path bearing left, which leads only into a vast expanse of plateau.  This path was much more indistinct and looked little used, so I kept on the wider track trending from north towards northeast.  Eventually the wide track slants down the hillside on a route known as Chapel Gate.  I wanted to head directly north across the head of Edale and was pleased to see the small path and very glad about the good signs that are provided in the National Park.  Before long the mist cleared enough for views of the head of the valley, and the little grassy path descended pleasantly and easily.

Path across the head of the main Edale valley.

The route ahead had various points of interest - the little stream bearing valleys within the main valley carrying the headwaters of the River Noe, several old farms, and the railway tunnel.  In the picture above, Dalehead can just be seen on the right hand side, now a National Trust property.  Above it the light coloured mound is an embankment and vent above the Cowburn Tunnel which cuts 2.1 miles through the hills to the left.  The path is not always distinct, but there was only one place that I had any difficulty, which was the only route finding problem of the whole day.  This was after the final farm at Highfield before crossing the River Noe to Upper Booth.  A path trending left up the valley was easier to pick up, and would have added something of a detour to a day I was beginning to realise was passing by all too quickly.  The old barns at Highfield, one of them falling into ruin, made for an evocative scene with the Mam Tor ridge towards Lose Hill now faintly visible in the hazy cloud.  I was again taken with the stream crossing, descending into the valley within a  valley to cross the infant River Noe.

River Noe near Upper Booth, Edale

The stream meandered around delightfully in a little wooded world of its own.  Part of the footbridge can be seen on the left.  Upper Booth is one of several small hamlets that make up the scattered community within the Edale valley.  It is a compact huddle of stone farm buildings, apparently lost in time.  The tracks twist and turn between farm buildings and farmyards, and it is certainly a good job that the various routes for walkers in all directions are well signed.  I was picking up the very first stage of the Pennine Way, in reverse, to the start at Grindsbrook Booth.  The lower part of the walled farm track was very muddy, but the walking was delightful up the open pastures beyond.  It was lunch time, but I was behind schedule - payment for failing to rush up Rushup Edge, I suppose.  However, I stopped to eat in the hope that the energy boost would spur me on.  There was a fine view back across the upper valley.

Pennine Way, towards Upper Booth

Continuing on, beneath the steep slopes of Broadlee-Bank Tor, the path levelled off and then started to gradually descend to Grindsbrook Booth.  For some distance the path was laid out in stone flags across gentle upland grazing meadows, before the final stretch in a deep set track between hedges to main settlement of the valley.  The track comes out exactly opposite the village primary school and the Nag's Head Inn, which is regarded as the proper starting point (or finish) of the Pennine Way.  I was thoroughly charmed by the village, and only sorry that I had no time to linger and explore.  Instead I headed straight across the village street and down a track past delightful cottages to a wonderful old packhorse bridge arching higher than expected above Grinds Brook.

Lowest cottage and bridge over Grinds Brook, Edale

It was onwards, but only briefly upwards, to Ollerbrook Booth, another hamlet, this time really off the beaten track, between the valley road and the steepening slopes up to the north.  Gentle walking allowed for rapid progress thorough the pleasant landscape, but perhaps with a little less to constantly encourage slowing down or stopping.   The route brought me out on the valley road at Nether Booth, the next of the valley hamlets to be visited, with still others having been left out.  The whole valley is quiet, because although there is a through route, it does a considerable loop, so only local traffic and people intent on visiting Edale really use it.  Walking a brief section of the road was no problem at all.

Edale valley road through Nether Brook

However, as walkers usually are, I was keen to leave the road and take to the footpaths.  I decided not to cut a corner, and proceeded with the planned route, hoping I was catching up well enough on time.  The next path is slanting left to Clough Farm, with a climb beyond that was really superfluous to the needs of getting back to the car via Lose Hill.  However, I ventured on with enthusiasm and a determined stride, heading exactly away from Mam Tor to the furthest point away from it of the whole day.  The track was wide, the gradient easy and progress rapid, with a fine view back from the crest above Jaggers Clough.

Edale and the Mam Tor ridge

Ahead the scene changed, with a view up one of the valleys leading to the vast upland of Kinder Scout, or in this case a major eastward extension of the plateau.  The track trended down to the stream, where a sharp about turn meant I was finally homeward bound in the right direction.  The wide track crossed the stream, but I took the little stile into the woodland, staying on the same side.  Backside Wood was a delight, and once more I was sorry to be rushing.  It must be a really lovely place in the spring and autumn.  The little path eventually crossed over the stream, heading towards Edale End.

Northern slopes of Edale, view near Edale End

At this stage it was still quite gloomy, although sunshine had been in the forecast for the afternoon.  I hurried through the next hamlet at Edale End, crossed the river, up to and across the road and the railway to take a path across the lower slopes of Lose Hill.  There are no paths up the north or northeast facing sides of the hill, so the route was deflected south, and this all took longer than expected.  Nevertheless, the walk past Oaker Farm was very attractive, and finally glimpses of sunlight could be seen lighting up the opposite hillside.  Well into the afternoon I reached Townhead, literally the lowest point of the walk at the foot of the main climb of the day.....  Spurred on, I tackled the lovely climb, fairly steep in places, but with views soon beginning to open out.  In the end I rushed a little more than proved necessary, the climb being less daunting and time consuming than it had seemed from below.  I felt the effects for a few days, but the remainder of the walk was splendid, even given a compromise on the route that I felt obliged to make.  Meanwhile, towards the top, the views across the Hope valley could not be ignored.

There is Hope

The village itself was catching the low angled sun, with patches of sun and shadow across the landscape.  After the perfectly pleasant but dull day it was quite a sight.  Although Lose Hill was one of the main objectives of the day, I needed to be sensible and reluctantly took the quick and easy option of the path skirting to the south of the summit.  I stopped for refreshments on the lovely elevated pasture land, continuing to enjoy the views in the changing light.  Mam Tor loomed ahead as an indefinite shape, still looking rather more distant than I hoped.  I had set a target in my mind of 4:30 for reaching the summit.  The sun shone as I strode through Brockett Booth Plantation, keen to reach the ridge at last.  A couple of walkers, each with a dog, passed in the other direction as I emerged, the last walkers seen until the summit of Mam Tor.  Finally arriving at the ridge did not disappoint, not in the least.

Back Tor, between Mam Tor and Lose Hill

The steepness of the profile of back Tor came a something of a surprise, all in all a fine spot to reach in the improving weather.  On the right of the picture, looking back along the way I had just come through the plantation, the distinctive summit of Win Hill can be seen, like a pimple on a plateau.  There was no avoiding my shadow appearing on the picture, with the low sun directly behind. My route lay onward into the sunshine.  The ridge is a lovely walk, easy underfoot, and mildly exhilarating rather than anything too dramatic.  A desperately bad head for heights would be needed to fail to enjoy the route.  A level section gives way to a shallow drop where the view ahead really opens up.

Onward ridge to Hollins Cross and Mam Tor

The detail of Mam Tor was now becoming defined to the sight, with Lord's Seat on Rushup Edge assuming the vague looming presence beyond.  Real progress was being made in the right direction.  Being very popular, and understandably so, a path has had to be properly laid to prevent even worse scarring and erosion across the ridge.  At least the way is obvious, however thick and low the mist might fall.  To the left (south) in the shade of Mam Tor, the route of the old main road can be picked out.  The route across the slopes of the "shivering mountain" had to be abandoned years ago due to large scale land slippage.  It certainly looks worth a closer inspection on foot, and I could see people looking around the remains of the road.  On the other side of the ridge, the Edale valley was now bathed in sunshine.

A detail of the view of Edale from Hollins Cross

The lowest point of the ridge at Hollins Cross is where paths converge from all directions from the valleys below.  My way was upward once more, interesting at this time of a February afternoon, even if the longest, latest February day possible.  The gradient was easy, but the way fairly long with a fair gain of height needed to reach the summit.  Torn between hurrying on and lingering to savour the views, the final summit came into sight with a couple in silhouette obviously admiring the view and taking pictures.  It was almost precisely 4:30.  There was little wind, so it was perfectly pleasant standing around to chat to the holiday makers.  It was now just a case of the short descent to the gap and back to the car.  There was, however, a final treat with the late afternoon light in the west playing on the receding lines of the slopes of Rushup Edge and the hills beyond.

Rushup Edge and hills receding into the distance

In the end I was at the car before 5.00 in good light, happy at the outcome of the day and delighted that I had persevered despite the unpromising start.  I was very happy with setting out high up and leaving the main climb until later in the walk.  It might not suit people who think a walk has to be up a hill in the morning and down in the afternoon, but I really would recommend saving the ridge until the end.  If setting out early, or when there are longer evenings, there should be plenty of time to include the summit of Lose Hill, and no need for any urgency or rush - whether it be to rush up or rush down.