A walk in wonderful wild Wales

Date of walk - 24th May 2012.  Distance - 16.75 miles.  Start - lane corner near Waun Marteg, NW of Bwlch-y-sarnau.

This simply has to be a record of one of the very best walks I can remember.  If anything, the day turned out a little too hot for comfort - heat I find the most tiring of conditions for walking.  Heat is often accompanied with haze, which is not always helpful for photography.  In every other way the walk was a gem from start to finish, both on the day and in the memory.  Having made brief visits to mid Wales over the last few years, I was eager to get back to the area.  I have now officially fallen in love, and this is from someone for whom a "sense of place" is one of the most special and meaningful things in life.

Although I was staying nearby, I decided to drive the short distance to the selected starting point, which was a wise move.  At the corner by the edge of the forestry, where Glyndwr's Way moves from forest track to minor lane, there is space for parking.  The first picture of the day has little to do with walking, and was taken within feet of the car - signalling a great start to a great day.

Spider web and dew, a winning visual combination

In mid Wales, at least outside the main summer season, most of the roads are quiet.  Even the A roads are not usually busy in the way so many roads are busy elsewhere, although I guess it would not take much to slow things down because they are hilly and twisty with few alternative routes.  The B roads are really quiet apart from a few popular spots.  Then there are the lanes, many of which seem almost deserted.  Then there are the lanes off the lanes, the dead end lanes and the lanes which serve only a few remote farms.  Such was the "road walking" at the start of this route.

Road walking, mid Wales style, looking back towards the start

The upper Marteg valley is unusually spacious, by Welsh standards.  In Wales the valleys are usually compact, narrow, and steep sided, with contours all over the place on the maps.  The Marteg valley has open vistas with room for large fields and for areas of forest, with the higher hills set back all around.  Some areas of forest have recently been felled, with all the variety of scene that brings.  A few have been replanted in usual Forestry Commission style, but in some areas it remains to be seen what the plans are for the future.  The lane soon changes into a forestry cum farm track, and I was following the one through to Brondre Fawr.  I was beginning the day by connecting the well established walking route of Glyndwr's Way.  I was anxious to get through this section, because I had heard stories of rights of way in Powys being blocked by local farmers in Powys.  It seemed highly unlikely that the route I envisaged would be affected, but I wanted to clear it through at the start of the day.  In the event there were no problems whatsoever, but local knowledge is probably very useful when planning walks based on the evidence of the maps.

Cleared forest near Brondre Fawr

The morning mist was slowly lifting from the hills, and provided an added atmosphere to scene among the cleared forestry.  The few lone trees left stood starkly.  The dusty track crossed the infant Marteg river before the approach to the farm.

Infant river Marteg

A vehicle rumbled by, heading for the farm and raising clouds of dust, but only briefly invaded the peace, which settled all the more firmly and consciously after its passing.  The remote farm looked like quite a substantial enterprise, with a range of large outbuildings away from the farmhouse.  Beyond, an area of cleared forest gave way to dense mature forest.  Even given the early start, the shade was already welcome, especially as this was one of the main climbs of the day.

The climb through the forest was rewarded with seeing forestry operations in progress, as the following sequence shows.

Hazy morning in the forest

Loading timber

Forest track

Timber on the move

The forest track eventually winds its way on to the hilltop lane from Bwlch-y-sarnau towards the A483 and Newtown.  It must be quite an important local route, and I did see a couple of vehicles while walking the short section north to the neighbouring forest on the other side.  In many places, the forest track did not provide the expected shade (and would similarly not provide shelter from wind or rain either) and seemed quite hot and dusty, and rather a drag.  However, it was a real blessing, providing a quick and easy link cross country.  I was careful to mark the track junctions - avoid the first two left turns near the road, then keep left at the next junction quite a bit further into the forest.  In the northern section of the Red Lion Hill forest, I was back in the shade of mature trees, with one lovely glimpse out between trees to misty forest and valleys beyond.

Forest view, Red Lion Hill

Emerging from the forest is always interesting, especially when, as today, I was entering totally new ground for me.  The countryside was as attractive as ever, with rolling hills, woods and farms.  Another pesky bit of road walking followed, this time of the dead end variety....

Road walking, mid Wales style (2)

The lane peters out into a track as it skirts around Castle Bank.  A short descent east led to the northeastern corner of the walk, a turning point where the Glyndwr's Way path was joined, to be followed back to the car in a great loop for the rest of the day.  The hills around here were smooth and grassy, with some bracken and heather on Moel Dod.  The path skirts the summit of the hill, which seems to be typical of this section of the way.  The path then gained the shallow ridge, overlooking the Ithon valley with the A483 snaking away below to the left (east).  Even in the haze, the views were good, and the walking itself was just delightful.

View by Moel Dod

Path south of Moel Dod

The path passes a small hilltop plantation, crossing a track that winds invitingly across the valley of Crychell Brook (all the streams seem to be brooks around here) and on to the forest of Red Lion Hill where I had been earlier on.  Beyond the plantation a row of larches and hawthorns continues for some distance, growing into fantastic windblown shapes.  Away to the east, lines of hills and forest recede into the distance, and beneath was a smooth carpet of green.

Track to Red Lion Hill

Larch and hawthorn near the ridge line

Ithon valley and hills into the distance

The path skirts another summit, this time that of Yr Allt, to the east, overlooking the Ithon valley.  The Ithon is a tributary of the Wye, following a tortuous course between this point and the Wye valley near Llandrindod Wells.  The path eventually descends to a gap in the hills at Tynypant, used by a minor lane from Bwlch-y-sarnau to the A483.  The haze thickened at this stage almost into low cloud, which was good for cooling things down a bit, but not so good for the photography.  What was clear that this was another lovely little corner of the world.  The lost height needed to be regained, and this is achieved via an easy ascending ridge to Ysgwd-ffordd.  To begin with, the lane to Bwlch Farm is used, and then the path leaves to follow the ridge up through trees to the open hillside.

Ridge path above Bwlch Farm

Lane corner near Bwlch Farm 

The ridge widens towards the top, with a mix of moorland and some areas of improved grazing.  Once again the path skirts the summit, with the trig point in view within easy reach.  However, with quite a long day, I omitted the small diversion.  Further on, the grassy path across moorland starts to overlook steep slopes to the right.

Moorland path, Ysgwd-ffordd

The path reaches a junction in a slight dip, and Glyndwr's Way here leaves the ridge and cuts back across the steep slopes before heading down through the Neuadd-fach woodland to the Bachell Brook valley below.  It is a lovely descent.

Hillside view, Ysgwd-ffordd

Valley of Bachell brook below the woodland

Being a land of valleys and hills, and an area of above average rainfall, it is also an area of streams and rivers.  I made a point of getting a picture of Bachell Brook.  There was also the opportunity to get a picture of sheep, which can hardly be avoided in mid Wales.  I tend feel a sense of ease and belonging if the country I am in is primarily sheep country - country of uplands, hillsides, open views......  Here they were down in the trees by the stream, but this only added to the variety of scene and to the enjoyment.

Bachell Brook

Sheep in the valley woodland

On the map, the next section may look rather uninviting for the walker, but we are already learning things about "road" walking in these parts.  (It must be said that the A and B roads are no doubt often awkward for walking, often relatively narrow with hills and bends, especially when without adequate verges).   I only saw one vehicle - the local post van - on the longish stretch gradually curving towards Abbewcwmhir.  It turned out to be as attractive a section as any, a nice complement and contrast to being on the high ground, with views to it rather than from it.  There were also the beautiful woodlands with the fresh green leaves, and one fine patch of bluebells.

Bluebells

Bachell Brook valley, and Ysgwd-ffordd

Woodland lane in May

Eventually the route of the way leaves the lane and skirts low hillsides on the way to Abbeycwmhir, now by the valley of Clywedog Brook, going upstream above the confluence with Bachell Brook.  Open fields alternate with woodland.  By now the sun was coming through once again, and it was hot, but the walking continued to be easy going and pleasant throughout.

A stream in woodland

Valley of Clywedog Brook below Abbeycwmhir

The path joins tracks and lanes converging on the small rural community of Abbeycwmhir.  I had explored the abbey ruins and the little village a day or two before, and was struck by the beauty of the location and the sense of history.  I intend to do a separate blog post on my impressions of the village and the abbey together with some picture from that day.  For now, it simply needs noting that the place made an impression, and it was lovely to have it included on such a well planned and interesting route for walkers.

Woodland junction near Abbeycwmhir

Village scene, Abbeycwmhir

Abbeycwmhir church

The path leaves right by the church, which is so lovely itself and in its fine setting.  Wooded hillsides surround the village in a sort of comforting embrace, creating a little world of its own for the valley and its community.  The path strikes up a little valley between two of these hills, which, being south facing was quite a sun trap.  Some of the sunshine had been captured and reflected by the broom bushes in bloom.

Broom in bloom and wooded hillsides

Reaching the shade of the trees was the obvious time and place for a welcome break.  A delightful woodland path led down once more to the Clywedog Brook, the path having cut a corner of the valley.

Path through trees

Woodland footpath

Clywedog Brook

The route then follows a lane where there is more chance of meeting traffic, being the "main" route northwest from the village, towards Bwlch-y-sarnau.  The valley and the surrounding hills were picture perfect on this day epitomising the transition from spring to summer.

Valley of Clywedog Brook

Glyndwr's Way sign and barn wall with lichen

  The route leaves the lane and heads up farm tracks by Lower and Upper Esgair, with views once again unfolding.  This is quite a significant climb once again from valley level.  Some of the meadows were full of daisies and buttercups and the whole seen was the visual definition of bucolic.

Meadows, valley of Clywedog Brook

View towards the hills around Abbeycwmhir

There is some fine grazing country around here, and the sheep were plentiful and looked the picture of health to a complete non expert passing through.  Well tended and improved upland grazing spreads out above Upper Esgair Farm.  The scenes all around were a joy to see and experience.

Upper Esgair farm

Track by Upper Esgair

Upland grazing

Sheep and growing lambs

The path continues up and over smooth grassy hillsides, eventually reaching a wider track which heads down to Bwlch-y-sarnau.  The scenery undergoes a subtle change, looking rather wilder although still with lots of hill pasture for grazing.  The track is obviously used by vehicles at times, and was scarred and deeply rutted in places.  It was a little less attractive and pleasant for walking than most of the rest of the day, but can hardly be described as a let down.  The track describes a couple of graceful curves across the hillside down to the village.  The little chapel struck me as the most notable sight on the quick passage through the village, sticking to the route.

Track sweeping towards Bwlch-y-sarnau

Chapel, Bwlch-y-sarnau

From Bwlch-y-sarnau it was back to the open spaces of the Upper Marteg valley, the sense of spaciousness of the valley being emphasised after the walking through more typical valleys nearby.  A meadow sloped gently down to the almost flat section through the forest, across the river and back to the starting point.  A memorable day, almost every step a joy.  Glorious conditions, a lovely time of year, but just such lovely and subtly varied scenery amongst these valleys and hills tucked away in a quiet area of mid Wales.

Glyndwr's Way, upper Marteg valley

A Derbyshire walk - Cromford, Bonsall, Ible, Middleton

Date of walk - 11th April 2012.  Distance - 11 miles, plus.  Start - Cromford.

I started by the canal wharf and the mills, which added a bit on to each end of the circular route.  After completing the walk I realised that only a relatively small section was within the National Park, so I have not included it as one of the Peak District series.  The measured circular route starts at the market place at the foot of Cromford Hill.

For the sake of the record a couple of pictures of the wharf and the famous historic mill complex are included to start the pictures of the day.

Canal wharf, Cromford

Part of the historic mill complex at Cromford

Cromford is at a busy road junction on the A6 with Cromford Hill coming down from Wirksworth and the Via Gellia route as well.  With numerous visitor attractions in the vicinity, and active quarrying, the traffic can be heavy.  However, it is certainly a place with plenty of interest beyond the famous mills by the river.  Scarthin is a narrow lane leading northwest from the market square, past a bookshop sharing the name of the street.  There is also a lake on the left, which adds considerable character to the village.

Scarthin, Cromford - market place end

Scarthin, Cromford - towards Water Lane

Water Lane is the start of the Via Gellia, the old lead mining route, now the A5012.  The few yards of the road walked at this stage yield a view of a waterfall or high weir for those who look carefully.  The route then bears right up Chapel Lane and climbs into the woodland beyond.

River at Cromford

Beech woodland on steep hillside above Chapel Lane

The first leaves were beginning to appear on just a few of the beech trees.  For now the sunshine was able to reach through to the ground, although a day of heavy April showers was forecast.  The path reached an old lane that has been cut off by quarry workings which are nearby on the left for a considerable distance from this point.  The lane is followed right then left, continuing to climb amongst trees with little in view on either side.  When there are glimpses of the view the contrast on each side becomes apparent.

Quarry and valley on one side of the path

Green pastures and trees on the other side of the path

Eventually the ground opens out a bit and the path makes a couple of gentle curves on the way towards Bonsall.  The walking is easy and pleasant, although the stark quarry fence spoils the view a bit and seems set back from any danger.  An old field barn is being taken over by a tree.  Round one of the curves, part of the village of Bonsall comes attractively into view.

View back along the path between Cromford and Bonsall

Town Head Farm and the approach to Bonsall

Beyond Town Head Farm, the track turns into Church Lane and the scattered houses merge into the village proper.  It passes the primary school, which is next to the church, as might be guessed.  It was certainly worth a look round the churchyard and the church which is most attractive both inside and out.

Stained glass window, Bonsall church

Church of St James, Bonsall

Blue skies were the order of the day at this stage.  It also turned out to be a good time of day to get a few nice shots of the village.  It is quite sizeable, stretching up a valley, and the parts to the north of the village cross were not visited on this route.  Instead, I turned back south along Yeoman Street, the main street and the route for vehicles between Bonsall and Cromford.  The cross is an impressive feature of the village, and there is a lovely mix of building styles and materials in the houses.  Brick is not regularly seen in Derbyshire White Peak villages, but makes an appearance on Yeoman Street.

Village cross, Bonsall

Yeoman Street, Bonsall

The road is followed as far as The Dale, where more houses run along a side valley, and climbs to Upper Town, which is almost a separate village in its own right.  Almost at the start of The Dale, a path strikes up the hillside heading southwest towards Slaley.  It is quite steep at first, but lovely views back to Bonsall open out, and the gradient eases across gently rising fields typical of limestone grazing country.  There are several field barns and numerous stone walls with gap stiles.  The path divides, but both lead to the lane.  The right hand one leads to a direct crossing of the lane, the other means a slight doubling back.

View over Bonsall

Path across gently rising fields

As can be seen from the last picture, by now there were signs of shower clouds beginning to build.  They certainly did not look too alarming at this stage, but the sunshine never turned out to be around in quite the same way for the rest of the day, and the conditions for photography were generally less good for much of the time.  Crossing Slaley Lane brought an encounter with lambs.

Lambs in a field near Slaley Lane

The ground continued to rise gently, and the grazing land became somewhat rougher.  The path reached a corner of Leys Lane, but I used another path to cut another corner of the lane.  The path crosses an area with many old mine workings, leading to the typically rough and bumpy ground, here with channels cut into the rock.  These places always seem especially difficult to capture on camera, and the light now was doing no favours so you will be spared the results here.  Next time I joined Leys Lane as it was now heading northwest.  An old barn and lots of limestone walls were lit by a little sunshine with darker clouds now around.

Old barn by Leys Lane

A walled track with many puddles led left towards Tophill Farm.  It was very pleasant to be in the open upland, but the views are not of the very best, and the main feature was the sky to the south.  The northwest was where I needed to keep the weather eye on, though.

Skyscape seen from Green Lane

A brow is crossed and the land now descends westwards.  I followed Tophill Lane briefly, and then took a path which cuts a corner on the downhill route.  I was in the shade of a cloud, but the extensive quarry was bathed in sunshine, looking as attractive as any working quarry can.  A little later, when I was at the nearest point on the day's walk to Grange Mill Quarry, the siren sounded long and loud.  The bang of the explosion and the sound of falling rock that followed still managed to take me by surprise.....  Rejoining Tophill Lane, briefly, at the bottom of its hill, I took the left turn to Ible.  There was now a view of Grangemill village rather than the quarry, although the latter was much nearer than when it was in sight.

Grange Mill quarry

Grangemill village

Ible was under a cloud and refused to yield a decent picture.  It is little more than a hamlet, and has a surprisingly remote feel given the proximity to the A 5012 out of sight in the valley below.  The lanes through are narrow and circuitous, not through routes to anywhere, so I expect Ible remains quiet and peaceful for much of the time (apart from the quarry).  A path descends south down open fields into the wooded Griffe Grange valley, which was duly followed.  The path at the top was by a little stream, and I think it was watercress that was growing there.  Lower down, by another stream in the woodland, golden saxifrage was in flower.  There are two sorts - opposite and alternate - but I'm afraid I don't know t'other from which.  (Looking more closely at the picture, the leaves do look opposite to me....)

Watercress?

Golden saxifrage - opposite or alternate?

After being botanically challenged, I was geographically challenged at Griffe Grange Farm.  The map was not detailed enough to show the exact route by the farm, and on the ground there were no signs as to whether the farm should be entered.  I decided to turn back as the clouds were finally gathering.  There was a moderately heavy shower that lasted about 40 minutes, but certainly nothing dramatic as had been threatened.  Most of the time I was in woodland along the Via Gellia and then the path doubling back up a side valley to the place I wanted beyond the farm.  The main road was not great for walking, but the wooded side valley was very nice, even in the cloud and rain.

Via Gellia in the Griffe Grange valley

Side valley through woodland

The woodland was carpeted with a verdant display of wild garlic foliage, no doubt the profusion of sparkling white flowers will be out in the next few weeks.  The little valley was very secretive, and the path seems little used, although the track is wider higher up, and private tracks also cross.  The climb is gradual, which was good as waterproofs were still required at this point.  There is a very distinct contrast between the woodland and the open upland grazing country beyond.  Once in the open, the rain had almost completely stopped, and the sky was partially clear with little further imminent "threat" - why is rain always a threat, especially at this time when it is still so needed in the area?  I am sure I have even heard weather forecasters talk about the threat of "a few spots of rain or light showers" and even the threat of drizzle!  It is time to come clean and admit to a real liking for rain, so threat is a word that will not be used by me in this context, apart from when there is enough of the stuff to lead to flooding, where the dangers and damages are real.  For me, a heatwave should be announced with a threat - my least favourite walking conditions.  On the whole, I simply love being out and about on foot, whatever the weather.  I've got a pair of legs that seem to appreciate being used.

Meanwhile, why not insert a picture of a highland cow, seen earlier in the day north of Ible?

Highland cow

There were no highland cattle on the open tops of Griffe Grange - name for local hill, farms, and valley.  I turned left and kept left across the brow of Griffe Grange.  Farm buildings were away off to the right, and the open fields were quiet.

Track on the open slopes of Griffe Grange

The brow of the hill, hardly to be called a ridge, is marked with several distinctive trees (to the left of the above picture).  Beyond the brow, the wide track descends with far reaching views over the flatter country stretching away south and east.  It is soon diverted by the ramparts of an embankment built to shield the edge of an expanded quarry.  A path turns left by the boundary fence.

Trees on the skyline of Griffe Grange

Looking back along the path by the quarry embankment

The path crosses a few more fields, still bending left, before finally reaching quite a steep east facing slope and turning right to descend said hillside to Arm Lees Farm.  Above the farm, the route of an old railway line can be seen, leading to - you've guessed it - a quarry.  Hopton Quarry is now closed, but a path skirts the workings and the site of the demolished quarry working buildings.  Warning signs sternly discourage straying from the right of way, which starts after a short stretch along the lane heading north.

Arm Lees Farm

Closed workings at Hopton Quarry

The path snakes through scrubby woodland, trending east, and then crosses an area scarred with old mine workings - man has certainly been busy around, on, and under Middleton Moor.  Only a little below the general level of the moor, the village of Middleton is exposed to winter conditions.  The track merges into a village lane with nice views over the village.  A short diversion down the main street is not necessary, but I thought the opportunity to see more of the village should be taken.  I doubled back along Chapel Lane, passing the Congregational Chapel.

Main Street, Middleton

A village scene, Middleton

Towards the top of Chapel Lane I turned left on a path behind houses on Churchill Avenue, and then left having just gone by a barn.  An old walled track led through small fields to another old barn.  I stopped a while for refreshments with more rain looking possible, but it did not really materialise until all the way back to the car.  What did materialise (or not) was the edge of the drop into yet another quarry, this time the last and biggest of the day.  For any who have not been counting, Dene Quarry was quarry number five for the day.  Straight ahead was not an option, so I turned left.  There is a bit of a rim, but plenty of places with views down into the quarry workings.  So quarries were confirmed as a major theme of the walk, even if not exactly planned - they are difficult to avoid in this part of the world!  Limestone is an excellent rock, and I love the natural formations, but when it comes to quarries I think I prefer the slate ones in the Lake District or in Wales.

Dene Quarry, near Cromford

Dene Quarry, near Cromford

The path followed the edge round the northwest corner and right across the northern side of the quarry, eventually descending towards Cromford village.  There are some good views overlooking the upper parts of the village, and the walk is completed down the famous Cromford Hill, lined with terraced houses.

D|own to Cromford from the quarry

Part of Cromford village up the hill

Cromford Hill

Overall the walk had plenty of interest, from the quarries to a mix of villages and countryside, some in lovely settings.  There is no doubting the variety of scenes that constantly unfold in this area of Derbyshire, and the impact of man through farming and mining / quarrying.  Cromford, being close to Matlock and Wirksworth, has a much busier feel than most of the walks previously described, but Ible is a much quieter spot.  The route is rather up and down, but with nothing really dramatic or strenuous.  I'll close with a picture of a wood anemone - there were some among bracken in the old mining area on Middleton Moor as well as the nearby woodland.

Wood anemone among bracken on Middleton Moor