A Derbyshire walk - Cromford, Bonsall, Ible, Middleton

Date of walk - 11th April 2012.  Distance - 11 miles, plus.  Start - Cromford.

I started by the canal wharf and the mills, which added a bit on to each end of the circular route.  After completing the walk I realised that only a relatively small section was within the National Park, so I have not included it as one of the Peak District series.  The measured circular route starts at the market place at the foot of Cromford Hill.

For the sake of the record a couple of pictures of the wharf and the famous historic mill complex are included to start the pictures of the day.

Canal wharf, Cromford

Part of the historic mill complex at Cromford

Cromford is at a busy road junction on the A6 with Cromford Hill coming down from Wirksworth and the Via Gellia route as well.  With numerous visitor attractions in the vicinity, and active quarrying, the traffic can be heavy.  However, it is certainly a place with plenty of interest beyond the famous mills by the river.  Scarthin is a narrow lane leading northwest from the market square, past a bookshop sharing the name of the street.  There is also a lake on the left, which adds considerable character to the village.

Scarthin, Cromford - market place end

Scarthin, Cromford - towards Water Lane

Water Lane is the start of the Via Gellia, the old lead mining route, now the A5012.  The few yards of the road walked at this stage yield a view of a waterfall or high weir for those who look carefully.  The route then bears right up Chapel Lane and climbs into the woodland beyond.

River at Cromford

Beech woodland on steep hillside above Chapel Lane

The first leaves were beginning to appear on just a few of the beech trees.  For now the sunshine was able to reach through to the ground, although a day of heavy April showers was forecast.  The path reached an old lane that has been cut off by quarry workings which are nearby on the left for a considerable distance from this point.  The lane is followed right then left, continuing to climb amongst trees with little in view on either side.  When there are glimpses of the view the contrast on each side becomes apparent.

Quarry and valley on one side of the path

Green pastures and trees on the other side of the path

Eventually the ground opens out a bit and the path makes a couple of gentle curves on the way towards Bonsall.  The walking is easy and pleasant, although the stark quarry fence spoils the view a bit and seems set back from any danger.  An old field barn is being taken over by a tree.  Round one of the curves, part of the village of Bonsall comes attractively into view.

View back along the path between Cromford and Bonsall

Town Head Farm and the approach to Bonsall

Beyond Town Head Farm, the track turns into Church Lane and the scattered houses merge into the village proper.  It passes the primary school, which is next to the church, as might be guessed.  It was certainly worth a look round the churchyard and the church which is most attractive both inside and out.

Stained glass window, Bonsall church

Church of St James, Bonsall

Blue skies were the order of the day at this stage.  It also turned out to be a good time of day to get a few nice shots of the village.  It is quite sizeable, stretching up a valley, and the parts to the north of the village cross were not visited on this route.  Instead, I turned back south along Yeoman Street, the main street and the route for vehicles between Bonsall and Cromford.  The cross is an impressive feature of the village, and there is a lovely mix of building styles and materials in the houses.  Brick is not regularly seen in Derbyshire White Peak villages, but makes an appearance on Yeoman Street.

Village cross, Bonsall

Yeoman Street, Bonsall

The road is followed as far as The Dale, where more houses run along a side valley, and climbs to Upper Town, which is almost a separate village in its own right.  Almost at the start of The Dale, a path strikes up the hillside heading southwest towards Slaley.  It is quite steep at first, but lovely views back to Bonsall open out, and the gradient eases across gently rising fields typical of limestone grazing country.  There are several field barns and numerous stone walls with gap stiles.  The path divides, but both lead to the lane.  The right hand one leads to a direct crossing of the lane, the other means a slight doubling back.

View over Bonsall

Path across gently rising fields

As can be seen from the last picture, by now there were signs of shower clouds beginning to build.  They certainly did not look too alarming at this stage, but the sunshine never turned out to be around in quite the same way for the rest of the day, and the conditions for photography were generally less good for much of the time.  Crossing Slaley Lane brought an encounter with lambs.

Lambs in a field near Slaley Lane

The ground continued to rise gently, and the grazing land became somewhat rougher.  The path reached a corner of Leys Lane, but I used another path to cut another corner of the lane.  The path crosses an area with many old mine workings, leading to the typically rough and bumpy ground, here with channels cut into the rock.  These places always seem especially difficult to capture on camera, and the light now was doing no favours so you will be spared the results here.  Next time I joined Leys Lane as it was now heading northwest.  An old barn and lots of limestone walls were lit by a little sunshine with darker clouds now around.

Old barn by Leys Lane

A walled track with many puddles led left towards Tophill Farm.  It was very pleasant to be in the open upland, but the views are not of the very best, and the main feature was the sky to the south.  The northwest was where I needed to keep the weather eye on, though.

Skyscape seen from Green Lane

A brow is crossed and the land now descends westwards.  I followed Tophill Lane briefly, and then took a path which cuts a corner on the downhill route.  I was in the shade of a cloud, but the extensive quarry was bathed in sunshine, looking as attractive as any working quarry can.  A little later, when I was at the nearest point on the day's walk to Grange Mill Quarry, the siren sounded long and loud.  The bang of the explosion and the sound of falling rock that followed still managed to take me by surprise.....  Rejoining Tophill Lane, briefly, at the bottom of its hill, I took the left turn to Ible.  There was now a view of Grangemill village rather than the quarry, although the latter was much nearer than when it was in sight.

Grange Mill quarry

Grangemill village

Ible was under a cloud and refused to yield a decent picture.  It is little more than a hamlet, and has a surprisingly remote feel given the proximity to the A 5012 out of sight in the valley below.  The lanes through are narrow and circuitous, not through routes to anywhere, so I expect Ible remains quiet and peaceful for much of the time (apart from the quarry).  A path descends south down open fields into the wooded Griffe Grange valley, which was duly followed.  The path at the top was by a little stream, and I think it was watercress that was growing there.  Lower down, by another stream in the woodland, golden saxifrage was in flower.  There are two sorts - opposite and alternate - but I'm afraid I don't know t'other from which.  (Looking more closely at the picture, the leaves do look opposite to me....)

Watercress?

Golden saxifrage - opposite or alternate?

After being botanically challenged, I was geographically challenged at Griffe Grange Farm.  The map was not detailed enough to show the exact route by the farm, and on the ground there were no signs as to whether the farm should be entered.  I decided to turn back as the clouds were finally gathering.  There was a moderately heavy shower that lasted about 40 minutes, but certainly nothing dramatic as had been threatened.  Most of the time I was in woodland along the Via Gellia and then the path doubling back up a side valley to the place I wanted beyond the farm.  The main road was not great for walking, but the wooded side valley was very nice, even in the cloud and rain.

Via Gellia in the Griffe Grange valley

Side valley through woodland

The woodland was carpeted with a verdant display of wild garlic foliage, no doubt the profusion of sparkling white flowers will be out in the next few weeks.  The little valley was very secretive, and the path seems little used, although the track is wider higher up, and private tracks also cross.  The climb is gradual, which was good as waterproofs were still required at this point.  There is a very distinct contrast between the woodland and the open upland grazing country beyond.  Once in the open, the rain had almost completely stopped, and the sky was partially clear with little further imminent "threat" - why is rain always a threat, especially at this time when it is still so needed in the area?  I am sure I have even heard weather forecasters talk about the threat of "a few spots of rain or light showers" and even the threat of drizzle!  It is time to come clean and admit to a real liking for rain, so threat is a word that will not be used by me in this context, apart from when there is enough of the stuff to lead to flooding, where the dangers and damages are real.  For me, a heatwave should be announced with a threat - my least favourite walking conditions.  On the whole, I simply love being out and about on foot, whatever the weather.  I've got a pair of legs that seem to appreciate being used.

Meanwhile, why not insert a picture of a highland cow, seen earlier in the day north of Ible?

Highland cow

There were no highland cattle on the open tops of Griffe Grange - name for local hill, farms, and valley.  I turned left and kept left across the brow of Griffe Grange.  Farm buildings were away off to the right, and the open fields were quiet.

Track on the open slopes of Griffe Grange

The brow of the hill, hardly to be called a ridge, is marked with several distinctive trees (to the left of the above picture).  Beyond the brow, the wide track descends with far reaching views over the flatter country stretching away south and east.  It is soon diverted by the ramparts of an embankment built to shield the edge of an expanded quarry.  A path turns left by the boundary fence.

Trees on the skyline of Griffe Grange

Looking back along the path by the quarry embankment

The path crosses a few more fields, still bending left, before finally reaching quite a steep east facing slope and turning right to descend said hillside to Arm Lees Farm.  Above the farm, the route of an old railway line can be seen, leading to - you've guessed it - a quarry.  Hopton Quarry is now closed, but a path skirts the workings and the site of the demolished quarry working buildings.  Warning signs sternly discourage straying from the right of way, which starts after a short stretch along the lane heading north.

Arm Lees Farm

Closed workings at Hopton Quarry

The path snakes through scrubby woodland, trending east, and then crosses an area scarred with old mine workings - man has certainly been busy around, on, and under Middleton Moor.  Only a little below the general level of the moor, the village of Middleton is exposed to winter conditions.  The track merges into a village lane with nice views over the village.  A short diversion down the main street is not necessary, but I thought the opportunity to see more of the village should be taken.  I doubled back along Chapel Lane, passing the Congregational Chapel.

Main Street, Middleton

A village scene, Middleton

Towards the top of Chapel Lane I turned left on a path behind houses on Churchill Avenue, and then left having just gone by a barn.  An old walled track led through small fields to another old barn.  I stopped a while for refreshments with more rain looking possible, but it did not really materialise until all the way back to the car.  What did materialise (or not) was the edge of the drop into yet another quarry, this time the last and biggest of the day.  For any who have not been counting, Dene Quarry was quarry number five for the day.  Straight ahead was not an option, so I turned left.  There is a bit of a rim, but plenty of places with views down into the quarry workings.  So quarries were confirmed as a major theme of the walk, even if not exactly planned - they are difficult to avoid in this part of the world!  Limestone is an excellent rock, and I love the natural formations, but when it comes to quarries I think I prefer the slate ones in the Lake District or in Wales.

Dene Quarry, near Cromford

Dene Quarry, near Cromford

The path followed the edge round the northwest corner and right across the northern side of the quarry, eventually descending towards Cromford village.  There are some good views overlooking the upper parts of the village, and the walk is completed down the famous Cromford Hill, lined with terraced houses.

D|own to Cromford from the quarry

Part of Cromford village up the hill

Cromford Hill

Overall the walk had plenty of interest, from the quarries to a mix of villages and countryside, some in lovely settings.  There is no doubting the variety of scenes that constantly unfold in this area of Derbyshire, and the impact of man through farming and mining / quarrying.  Cromford, being close to Matlock and Wirksworth, has a much busier feel than most of the walks previously described, but Ible is a much quieter spot.  The route is rather up and down, but with nothing really dramatic or strenuous.  I'll close with a picture of a wood anemone - there were some among bracken in the old mining area on Middleton Moor as well as the nearby woodland.

Wood anemone among bracken on Middleton Moor

Peak District Walk (1) - Eyam and Wardlow

Date of walk: Feb 16th, 2012.  Distance: 10.5 miles.  Start: Eyam village. 


An illustrated description of the walk, click on any picture to enlarge, or to view as a slideshow.



The first thing was to get some new boots.  This was quickly accomplished in Bakewell where there seemed an offer too good to miss.  A few weeks and almost 60 miles underfoot later, I am pleased with the purchase.  10 miles might not always be advised for breaking in new boots, but my confidence seems to have been well placed.

Eyam is a village with a well known and moving historical event that resonates to this day.  It was touching to walk past the cottage where the plague first struck - there are plaques around the village, and there is also a local museum.  Many other houses around the village were afflicted, but the villagers imposed an embargo on the whole community whereby contact was forbidden, thus helping to prevent the spread of disease to other communities.  Indeed a story of suffering and sacrifice back in the year of 1665.

Plague Cottage, Eyam

Today the village is quite large and appears to be a thriving rural community, despite the many concerns there are over the often hidden stresses and expense of life in the countryside these days.  It was a delightful walk into the countryside leading down to the village of Stoney Middleton, with fine view over the village and the valley beyond.  It was mainly dull at this stage, but with hints of brightness and possible sunshine.

Overlooking Stoney Middleton

Stoney Middleton is familiar to travellers along the main road, which leaves an open valley and dives into a narrow and confined valley between limestone cliffs.  There is plenty of interest away from the main road, and it was pleasant to wander through the part of the village in the picture with a minor detour to the church on the left, which is of a most unusual design and really rather attractive, and then along the main road for a short way.  Even then I did not see the other side of the village climbing up the hillside on the other side of the narrow valley to the right of the picture.

I was heading for another narrow limestone valley, one without the distraction of the traffic of a major road.  The way to it was by a line of trees seen in the top right of the above picture, towards Combs Dale.  The valley is steep sided and wooded, so on the rather dull morning did not lend itself to photography.  There is a very good track, and the scenery becomes fairly typical of a steep sided limestone valley.  There is a lot of evidence of the historic lead mining industry in the area.  Toward the top I rested for some lunch while still reasonably sheltered from the cool breeze.  A little while later fine views back down the valley could be enjoyed.

View down Combs Dale

I ought perhaps to share a little about how I enjoy my walks, and the added interest from the thought that is necessary when writing up an account.  It is simply that I enjoy walking and seeing the lie of the land, with something of an interest in the plants and trees.  It is always fascinating to plan a route on the map and see how the landscape actually unfolds underfoot when in a new area.  In recent times photography has become an increasingly important element, so I try to allow time for numerous brief stops to record views and details as I pass.  I do not normally go with the specific intent of waiting for the perfect conditions, and I want to simply give an impression of what it was like when I passed that way.

It is usually not until I get home that I start thinking in more depth about the places visited, about what life was like for villagers in previous generations, or for the lead miners in times gone by.  If I revisit places, a growing sense of the history and context should develop.  What I enjoyed at the time was simply the view down the valley with the steep sided interlocking spurs hopefully making a decent photo....

The next section of the walk was interesting, but not by any means a pretty corner of the Peak District countryside.  Towards Longstone Moor there had been a long history of lead mining with spoil heaps left in the area.  Since then the fluorspar in the spoil and in the limestone generally has become more valuable commercially and has recently been exploited on a large scale in the area.  There is a fair bit of controversy between the industrialists and the environmentalists.  Anyway, one of the results is a dam with a large area  wet ground and lagoon rather than a proper lake or reservoir.  There are warning signs of quicksands and danger of drowning in the water.  There are large muddy tracks which are obviously used by heavy vehicles at times.  It all looks rather desolate, but was nevertheless another element in a walk full of variety and interest.

On Longstone Moor

Just west of the lake or lagoon, in its unusual upland setting, the watershed is reached with fresh views opening out to the west.  Limestone country is so varied.  Often there are deep valleys and rocky outcrops, but in other places like this there is a wide open upland grassy plateau with gentle slopes.  The network of fields divided by dry stone walls is one of the most distinctive features.  No doubt it can often seem rather bleak and windswept around Wardlow, but it can also be lovely in the spring and summer when the meadows grow in those extra vivid shades of green associated with limestone grassland.  Even in February, the brief interlude of sunshine I experienced transformed the scene.

Fields around Wardlow

By the time I reached the village the clouds were closing in once again.  Wardlow is one of those linear villages that seems to lack a real heart or village feel, but it is easy to see how the line of development grew along the route of the road.  Many of the individual houses are attractive, but it appears above all to be a working farm community with lots of barns and machinery around.  Arriving by the chapel and the old red telephone box, I turned left (south) for a short distance before picking up another path heading west.  The path was between walls, indicating an old route for the movement of sheep which graze much of the land in the area.

Path between walls near Wardlow

The path seemed to be simply continuing across open plateau land, but a surprise was in store, even when the map clearly indicated a change in the landscape.  Over the brow the land suddenly gives way at the edge of a deep valley cutting right across the line of the picture above.  This is just part of Cressbrook Dale, a tributary of the River Wye which flows along a tortuous valley with distinct sections given different names such as Chee Dale, Miller's Dale and Monsal Dale.  The change of view is really quite dramatic - at least in comparison with what much of southern and eastern England has to offer - and certainly best appreciated and savoured when travelling on foot.

Cressbrook Dale

The picture shows how the camera can often struggle to do justice to the scale of a landscape, and is also dependant on light quality for the best results.  Many landscapes can be fully enjoyed and appreciated in situ in a wide range of conditions, but can be elusive on camera.  Yes, the colours were rather subdued, but the atmosphere of the place was still rather grand and the walk slanting down to the valley floor was most enjoyable.  The sense of enclosure was strong after the open upland, and yet the there was also the sense of shelter to contrast with the ruggedness.  Upstream the valley was narrower with smooth stony sides, apart from the remarkable rocky tower of Peter's Stone and the side valley of Tansley Dale.  A road to Litton goes right along the top edge, taking away something of the secretive nature of the valley.  There are small limestone crags in many places.

Limestone crag, upper Cressbrook Dale

Suddenly the upper valley seems to merge into the plateau, near Wardlow Mires where the main road passes.  Once the road junction and a few yards of the main road are negotiated, a path winds north through the farm buildings and strikes through open fields to Stanley house.  By now the cloud had closed in and it was a steady drizzle and light rain.  Even so, the landscape looked very atmospheric, but in a way once again that is difficult to capture on camera.  The scattering of farmhouses and field barns helped.

Limestone upland west of Foolow, in the mist

The route crossed the minor valley of Silly Dale, and through many walled fields into the upland village of Foolow.  Unlike Wardlow, it has a real village feel, nestling around a village green and pond.  The path suddenly leaves the fields and goes past pleasant cottages and their gardens to the green - another nice moment on the varied walk.  Even on a dull day, limestone as a building material looks bright and attractive.

Village scene, Foolow

Around here, several of the higher villages have "low" in their name, and even some of the hills, such as High Low near Monyash.  I have not verified the detail, but it seems rather like the use of "law" in the Scottish borders.  It certainly does not mean that the places are low down.  A lane goes directly to Eyam, but there is a footpath set nicely back in the large open fields, giving a moorland feel to much of the final stretch of the walk back to the starting place.  The main landmark is crossing another small limestone valley called Linen Dale, which looks almost too neat to be natural, as can be the case with limestone.  There are a number of trees, solitary and in small groups, which on a dull day always add to the visual interest.

Linen Dale, east of Foolow, Eyam Edge beyond

The rain eased and the sky gradually brightened, although the sun never really came through until on the way home in the car.  Eventually the ground trends slightly downhill and the village of Eyam comes into view.  This walk helps to appreciate the relatively large size of the village, and it certainly looks worth exploring in more detail on further visits should the opportunities arise.

Village scene, Eyam